The Ahilya Fort, perched high above the River Narmada, is an enchanting place to stay. The atmosphere here is more of a cosy and quirky home rather than a grand palace. The building has been perfectly restored: pale old stone floors, ancient shuttered doors, carved arches and unusual bathrooms. Richard Holkar, whose father was the Maharaja of Indore, is the driving force behind Ahilya and is passionate about the region's crafts and traditions. The hotel organises activities at the fort, on the river and in the surrounding area including visits to ancient forts, temples and local handcraft centres where beautiful saris are produced.