Madhya Pradesh: Wildlife, History & Romance

10 days from £5,940 for 2023 per person

• Bhopal
• Satpura Wildlife Reserve
• Maheshwar

Madhya Pradesh has always slightly dodged the spotlight which shines so brilliantly on more celebrated neighbouring states, which means one can experience the richness of this magical central Indian state without that feeling of just following a tourist trail. Kipling Country has so much to offer, from ancient wonders dating back thousands of years, to abundant wildlife and birding opportunities, travel experiences here really do rank with the best.

Your journey begins in the state capital of Madhya Pradesh, the green and picturesque city of Bhopal. The city is centred around pair of enormous lakes, green parks and leafy boulevards. In Bhopal’s Muslim-dominated old city, explore a fascinating, labyrinthine area of mosques and crowded bazaars, with the ethereal call to worship echoing through the lanes. Delve into the history of the four female Islamic rulers, known as the Begums of Bhopal, who developed the city in the 19th and early 20th centuries, or explore the modern part of town south of the lakes, with wide roads, some excellent museums, and upmarket hotels and restaurants.

From Bhopal drive the bustling route to the peaceful and serene Satpura National Park, where you will be welcomed with open arms at the wonderful family-run Reni Pani Jungle Lodge, sister to the Jehan Numa Retreat. Game drives here are second to none, with each naturalist trained to the highest standard, and accompanying every game drive; there is no sight or sound too small not to be identified. Wildlife is plentiful, so one can expect to spot leopard, sloth bears, wild dog, crocodile, langur, gaur, sambar, blue bull, as well as a rich variety or birdlife. Tigers are the big news here, and your chances of spotting a regal beauty in its natural habitat are as good as anywhere in India.

The final leg of your journey takes you to the sleepy and spiritual riverside town of Maheshwar. Life here mirrors the languid Narmada River which flows gently passed the town. Maheshwar is infused with the spiritual and chill-out vibes for which India is renowned, and is fascinatingly far removed from mainstream Indian culture. The unparalleled Ahilya Fort is possibly one of the most romantic spots in India, and a firm Ampersand favourite. Read a book by the pool, float smoothly down the river on a long boat or sip a G&T from the balcony as the sun dips below the horizon in the evening. This hotel will be sure to steal your heart, and you’ll leave wishing you hadn’t.

This holiday is purely a suggested itinerary. It can be booked as it is, or alternatively used as a starting point for creating your own perfect tailor-made tour of central India.

To my mind, the greatest reward and luxury of travel is to be able to experience everyday things as if for the first time, to be in a position in which almost nothing is so familiar it is taken for granted.
Bill Bryson