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Noto
If you want to get well off the beaten track, the Noto Peninsula is for you. Along the 200km coastal road there are numerous viewpoints, temples and shrines to stop at. With no train service, it’s best done by rental car as it would take forever by bus!
At the northern tip of the peninsula is Lamp no Yado, one of Japan’s most famous 'ryokan' with just fifteen ocean-facing rooms built to resemble local fishing villages. There are some other great ryokan options dotted around it though, mainly in laid-back Wakura and Wajima with its impressive Japanese lantern museum.
And if driving along a beach is on your list of things to do before you die, you can go right up to the sea's edge on the eight-kilometre stretch of sand at Chirahama.
Features in the following itineraries
To my mind, the greatest reward and luxury of travel is to be able to experience everyday things as if for the first time, to be in a position in which almost nothing is so familiar it is taken for granted.
Bill Bryson