Sendai

Sendai itself is a pleasant modern city and makes a great base for exploration of the Tohoku region.

While visiting Zuihoden, the mausoleum of a powerful feudal lord, is interesting enough as it is one of the most ornate and richly detailed surviving structures in Japan; it is the day trips that really make it worth staying a few days here.

To the east, Matsushima Bay is a delightful scenic spot with the hilltop view out over its scattered islands, which many claim are amongst Japan's official top three. To the west, Yamadera temple and shrine complex clings to the hillface, rewarding the climber with great views back over the complex and valley below.

An hour or so north is Hiraizumi, stronghold of the 12th century Fujiwara clan. Some structures date back a thousand years and it has recently become a World Heritage site. In the autumn, Naruko gorge to the south is one of Japan's most popular and dramatic autumn leaf viewing spots, with a scenic local train ride up the gorge and some fairly gentle hiking trails.

At Zao, snow compacts on the trees during the winter and then the wind whips them into 'snow monster' shapes: a landscape photographer’s dream. Keen skiiers will also appreciate the slopes here, as well as the volcanic hot springs (‘onsen’) that make for a special and relaxing après ski activity in which to soothe one’s aching muscles.

Those travelling through northern Japan on a JR Rail Pass can make these side-trips at no extra cost, then come back to base in Sendai for restaurants and creature comforts. The cuisine in this city is bound to be a highlight as it is famed for its tenderness: we highly recommend you try the local delicacies of ‘gyutan’ (grilled beef tongue) and oxtail soup.

To my mind, the greatest reward and luxury of travel is to be able to experience everyday things as if for the first time, to be in a position in which almost nothing is so familiar it is taken for granted.
Bill Bryson