Drive through the gates of Bandhavgarh and a great vista of grassland opens up, sweeping up to a dramatic red sandstone escarpment. These were the former hunting grounds of the Maharajas of Rewa, tucked between the Vindhyan ranges and the eastern flank of the Satpura hills, and were once famous for their white tigers. Today, the grasslands and sal forests harbour a healthy population of tigers, as well as deer, langur monkeys, sloth bear and wonderful birds such as drongos, bee-eaters and rare hornbills. On top of the escarpment is a temple with its own priest, whose approach is guarded by a beautiful, sleeping Vishnu at the base of the cliff. Early morning and afternoon game drives are by jeep, but when tigers are positively sighted in the forest, elephant-back is the best way to get as close to them as possible.