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NORTH INDIA

Calcutta

Calcutta's streets tell stories. Old mansions dripping in moss and spotted with mildew make it easy to imagine its spectacular trajectory from rural village to Imperial India's most imposing city. Set on the Hooghly River and originally leased by the British East India Company in 1690, by the late 19th century it was the capital of the Raj, with burgeoning trade and a reputation for being more cosmopolitan than the rest of India. A century later Calcutta was famous for urban chaos and poverty, but somehow it has triumphed and emerged as one of India's most creative cities: residents claim the poverty is no worse than any other major conurbation on the Subcontinent, the crumbling relics of the Raj are still there, powerful and atmospheric, and the city is acknowledged as a powerhouse of the arts. Sights include the Victoria Memorial, St Paul's Cathedral and the excellent India Museum, housing one of the world's finest collections of Indian art. There are also smaller treasures, such as the South Park Cemetery, the Marble Palace (with its Western art collection) and the idol-making workshops at Kumar Tuli. Calcutta will surprise you with its warmth and hospitality; it's a must for anyone who wants to get to grips with India.

> Itineraries visiting Calcutta