There is something magical about Jaisalmer, which rears out of the inhospitable Thar Desert like a mirage from the "1001 Nights". Once a staging post on the trading routes west, it is a walled citadel, formidably fortified, of a sand colour that turns golden in the setting sun, and it contains a labyrinthine fort surrounded by palaces and temples. Below the forest of intricately carved spires and turrets is a merry jumble of buildings, alleys, animals, humans, shops and cafes, wonderful golden havelis and numerous fine Jain temples. Get lost in the maze of streets and walk around the walls to look out on the shimmering expanse of desert and appreciate the sheer isolation of the location. Camel trains can often be seen taking visitors out into the desert on camel safaris.