One of three sanctuaries in "tiger territory", on the eastern flank of Madhya Pradesh, 945-square-kilometre Kanha (with additional 1,000-square-kilometre buffer zone) started life as a wilderness used by the British for shooting tiger and other game. The country is rolling and varied, with dense forests of sal, wide meadows and clumps of bamboo. The population of wild Bengal tigers is reasonably healthy, attracted by the large numbers of deer grazing in the river valleys, and with luck and patience it is possible to see leopards and sloth bears (Baloo!). More common sights are gaur, or Indian bison, blue cows and swamp, mouse and spotted deer, and dhole or Indian wild dogs, hunting in packs. The Banjar River is a haven for paradise flycatchers, kingfishers, golden orioles, bee-eaters and numerous water birds. A breakfast trip to the old airstrip used by the Maharajas and their guests, at the highest point in the park, is a must, for stunning views over the one morning. The vista over the vast expanse that is Kanha is absolutely stunning.