The first sight of the beautiful fort and tiered temples of Maheshwar, shimmering above their reflections in the waters of the sacred Narmada River, is something that no-one forgets. Not many tourists make it this far, which is a shame because it is one of the most atmospheric villages in India. Based around a fort built by Akbar the Great, it was once the capital city of King Kartivirarjun, revitalized in the 18th century by the Holkar queen of Indore. There are wonderful views from the fort and temples to the plains beyond. This is a place in which to savour the peace and quiet, plan visits to the island temple of Omkareshwar and the deserted city of Mandu - both of which are nearby - stroll by the ghats or shop for the famed local saris, woven in plain cotton with decorative silk ends.