Rishikesh is really a collection of districts, which became famous as a spiritual centre because of its position on the banks of the Ganges, where the mountains rise out of the plains. Many years ago it was rural and peaceful and its heady mix of mountains and water attracted ascetics, gurus and yogis who set up ashrams. By the time The Beatles arrived in the 1960s it was already more or less commercialised; the hippies have now metamorphosed into New Agers and yoga devotees. Don't expect tranquillity, but do expect some fine ashrams and temples, walks and people-watching. Some visitors stay for weeks.