Dewachen Hotel
Gangtey

Located just outside the village of Gangtey and at the edge of Black Mountain National Park, Dewachen Hotel is a cosy and comfortable Bhutanese-run guesthouse, tucked away in the heart of Bhutan's beautiful rural countryside.

Built in the style of a traditional Bhutanese farmhouse, the hotel comprises of 28 simple but comfortable rooms with en-suite facilities and most have balconies. The rooms offer striking views over the immensely beautiful Phobjikha Valley beyond. Each room comes equipped with a wood-burning stove (or bukhari) for winter and the coolers nights, and the woodwork is beautifully painted in a traditional fashion. The embroidered bedspreads, thick mattresses and duvets add to the traditional and cosy alpine atmosphere. Electricity supply to the remote Phobjikha valley is restricted so the hotel has its own generator to provide an ongoing supply.

As with all guesthouses in Bhutan, the home cooked food here is simple, but the menu offers a range of cuisine such as Bhutanese, Chinese and continental, and the bar is also well stocked. There are no TVs or Wi-fi at Dewachen, so this is the perfect spot to unwind, connect with the location and catch up with a good book in the evenings. There are pleasant gardens to explore and there are also some excellent day walks from the hotel. There is also a traditional hot stone bath for guests to unwind in.

Phobjikha Valley, a glacial valley and protected nature area, is home to the endangered black-necked cranes, who flock to the valley in large numbers from October to March each year. In mid-November the much-loved black-necked crane festival is held at Gangtey Gonpa to celebrate the arrival of the cranes, which can be seen flying at high altitudes over the mountains.

Although this is a no-frills property, Dewachen has a great sense of location, and there is a true sense of Bhutanese hospitality and genuine charm in a truly beautiful location.

To my mind, the greatest reward and luxury of travel is to be able to experience everyday things as if for the first time, to be in a position in which almost nothing is so familiar it is taken for granted.
Bill Bryson