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Musing upon the Japanese art of wabi-sabi‏

Musing upon the Japanese art of wabi-sabi‏

Ampersand’s Japan specialist David Wall explores the uniquely Japanese concept of wabi-sabi

Two birds on a branch, painted sparingly on a sliding wooden door; sunset-red maple leaves strewn in the corner of an ornamental pond; an old wooden washing bowl enveloped in rising steam from a hot spring bath.

All these are examples of wabi-sabi, a distinctively Japanese aesthetic that has the transience of nature at its heart. It romanticises a rural good life in which people are materially impoverished but spiritually enriched, appreciating beauty and at ease with the impermanence of everything from falling leaves to time-worn utensils. Japan might seem like another planet sometimes, but it is more often a magic mirror reflecting English culture. The notions of wabi-sabi bear some comparison to the aesthetic of our Romantic poets. Where Wordsworth and Coleridge glimpsed hermits in the woods, the Japanese see the essence of wabi in ‘the little monk with his wind-torn robe.’ As the Romantics imagined the rustic hermitage, the timeworn essence of sabi is evoked by coarse Bizen pottery cups in a rough-hewn teahouse in the woods.

In a society seemingly obsessed with new novelties and fashion, collapsing under the weight of its own consumer output, wabi-sabi provides a great antidote to cluttered modern living and the bright, sparkly iPhone culture. It can be experienced most famously in cherry blossom season, when fallen petals on the concrete boulevards amongst the shiny skyscrapers are more poignant than before they fell. It can be found in austere zen rock gardens like Ryoanji in Kyoto, where the weathered rocks are isolated from nature as a whole and placed in raked gravel so that we can contemplate their impermanent beauty. The great mystery of our fleeting lives is in these little details. As Van Gogh said, the Japanese artist ‘studies a single blade of grass’, unlike the western artists who prefer grand landscape vistas.

If this all seems rather ephemeral and elusive, wabi-sabi can be tangibly experienced at a traditional Japanese inn or ‘ryokan’, and the best of them are doing great business off the back of the general yearning for it. Each apparently spartan tatami-mat room has a tokunoma, an alcove where a simple ‘ikebana’ flower arrangement and a sparingly painted ‘kakemono’ scroll complement each other. Little details like the slight warping of the wood in the old sliding doors or a solitary branch outside the window are all cause for contemplation. Their kaiseki dinners consist of artfully arranged small dishes that reflect the tones of each season, and are examples of wabi-sabi in themselves. A stay in Japan wouldn’t be complete without the ryokan experience.

At Beniya Mukayu, one of our favourites, a rickety old teahouse nestles in the semi-wild garden whilst inside an ingenious modern sculpture focuses the eye on the beauty of water droplets. The juxtaposition sounds jarring on paper, but wabi-sabi is the magic ingredient that makes it work. If there is one aesthetic that shows beauty is in the eye of the beholder then it’s wabi-sabi, in which even a few rocks and moss can transform into something profound despite seeming rather plain and simple at first glance. We invite you to delve into Japan yourself and experience it with your own eyes.

Get in touch with David at +44 (0) 207 819 8900 or email david@ampersandtravel.com to start planning your tailormade luxury holiday to Japan.



Client Testimonials

So many highlights to choose from! The hotels were amazing but Maya Villa was a highlight… I loved just hanging out in the hammock reading my book and watching the peacocks chase the cows!
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We have just returned back from a wonderful trip. Thank you very much for organising everything. The transfer was excellent – for once they had perfect car seats. The villa was lovely, just what we needed and the hotel had helpfully put us as far away as possible from everyone else. The breakfast buffet was the best I have ever seen – and I am slightly obsessive over breakfast!! There was an incredible choice, something for everyone and so beautifully presented. A real highlight of the trip. Thank you again for sorting everything - and at such short notice!
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- Mr Geoffrey Johnson, India
I barely know where to begin... though a sincere 'thank you' would be the best. You have organised this trip perfectly. May was an inspiring and delightful companion in Myanmar – thoroughly professional and friendly at the same time. My accommodation throughout has been superb, especially The Governor's Residence and The Mandarin Oriental. The view from the cottage at Inle Lake was beautiful and I loved every moment of being there. And here I am now on the last leg of this extended holiday at my favourite place. I could stay here for ever, the peace, silence and surroundings all amazing, plus the people and the whole aura of Vana. Thank you for much, and I look forward to speaking to you on my return.
- Ms Margulies, Burma, India & Thailand
Everything you did for us whilst we were away was hugely appreciated, and Ampersand has been exemplary in every way. I'll always recommend you!
- Mr Richard Stoughton, Sri Lanka
Ampersand’s preparation, attention to detail and interaction before and during our trip show exactly why good travel agents have a role in today’s internet booking age. They were a delight to deal with!
- Mr David Wallace, North India
Without question, you put together the best trip I have ever taken. We were shown around like visiting dignitaries, the hotels were fantastic and the itinerary was just right. Everybody I know will hear about how amazing Ampersand is!
- Leslie Siben, India
I would recommend Ampersand without any hesitation!!! The best travel agent that I’ve ever had. Everything – from the individual care and attention in planning the trip, through to the efficiency of the agents on the ground in India – was handled brilliantly. An absolutely first-class service all round!
- Matthew Annable, Rajasthan, India
I had a very lovely time and was looked after splendidly. My first visit to India could not have been better, save for being longer! But I shall return at some point and I shall look to you to make the arrangements.
- Matthew Nicklin, North India
We really enjoyed the trip and were happy that we squeezed so much into a few short days. The Burmese people were lovely and the sites were fantastic. We really enjoyed the balloon ride and would highly suggest it to others in the future. The trip went super smoothly and a good time plus learning happened for all. Yangon was nice as the Strand was quite amazing and we of course loved the giant gold temple. Many thanks for all of your help and look forward to future travel with you.
- Wallace Family, Burma
We had a wonderful holiday - everything was perfect. Thank you for helping us to make a thoughtful plan to enjoy and make most out of our trip. The places we visited, the guides, the transportation and driver, the hotels selected... Everything was great!
- Jaime Benitez, South India
Ballyfin was great - we loved it! Best things were the amount of space, it felt like you had the whole place to yourself, the history of the house, and the staff. We'd definitely recommend it. Thanks very much for all the help getting it booked!
- Mr Wyburd, Ireland
Getting to Amanpulo from Manila was very simple and the beach was the most beautiful I’d ever been on; pristine white sand, not a single piece of rubbish in sight. You get your own solar powered golf buggy to drive around resort (and a butler at request). The views from the Hillside Casita were spectacular!
- Mr Wyburd, Philippines
Ampersand provided a bespoke and flexible holiday, tailored to my every whim. Their highly professional staff had only one goal which was to arrange an exceptional holiday and some unforgettable experiences in India. I have no hesitation in fully recommending them and they will be the first company I approach in the future - 10/10
- Anonymous, India
Difficult to articulate just how good the service from you and your team really was. We know you will continue to do well and hope we have the chance to seek your assistance again before long.
- Mr & Mrs Manson, North India
Difficult to choose the highlight of the trip, can’t choose between… 1) Taj Mahal & Oberoi Amarvilas. 2) Ranthambore. 3) Lake Palace. We have to say a particular thank you for selecting Parmod as our driver. He is a delightful and kind man who took our holiday and our enjoyment as his responsibility. Thank you for putting together such an amazing trip for us. The balance of city and rural destinations was perfect for us and the variety of rooms and hotel types brilliant. Our driver and guides also added so much to the trip with their knowledge of India’s history and culture and their willingness to discuss it both from a professional and personal angle.
- Carruthers family, North India

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