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David’s Shooting Star: Jews of Mumbai

David’s Shooting Star: Jews of Mumbai

India has ebbed and flowed with a Babel-like torrent of races since time began. Within this kaleidoscope, the little-known Jewish community have a long and captivating story to tell. The exact date of their arrival on the subcontinent is shrouded in mystery with claims of Jews settling around 8th century BCE as one of Israel's Ten Lost Tribes. Intriguingly, there is not a single record of anti-Semitism in India’s long history, surely a unique testament in the often-troubled tale of the Jewish diaspora.

Mumbai, that centre, according to Kipling, of “idleness, intrigue and luxury”, became a haven for Jews under British colonial rule. They stamped the metropolis with a charming legacy, distinctly Levantine but infused with local colours. The oldest group, The Bene Israel ('Sons of Israel') claim descent going back 1,000 years from wandering Semites who arrived in India possibly by mistake and never left. One tale has them originating from oil-pressers who sailed from Galilee around 150 BC. The hapless group were shipwrecked on the Konkan coast, near Mumbai, and the survivors, seven men and seven women, buried the dead in a graveyard that exists to this day. The Semites adopted Hindu monikers similar to their Biblical first names and, over time, lost their Holy books and the Hebrew language except the totemic prayer S'hma Israel (Hear, O Israel...). However, the Sabbath and kosher culinary traditions were meticulously maintained, the latter resulting in a delectable cuisine still to be found today.

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The Bene Israel’s heritage in Mumbai is perhaps most poignantly seen at a wedding as the bride, dressed in a white sari, walks towards the groom while he sings the “groom song” looking down from the synagogue podium. During the Passover festival, the people can be seen making matzoth (an unleavened flatbread) and solemnly whitewashing their houses. There is a romantic tale that the Bene Israel were discovered by an outsider Jew, David Rahibi, in the 18th century as a people living entwined with their Hindu neighbours. Rahibi, recognising their identity, devoted his life to re-introducing them to Judaism. He chose three young men to be spiritual guardians of the community who, in turn, passed the honour down their families establishing a quasi-priestly caste. Subsequently, the Bene Israel were immensely trusted by the British in the thorny colonial climate as being above ‘the politics and prejudices of the mass populace’. This privileged position proved a difficult one at the time of 1947 Independence with many emigrating, a people once again on the move, and settling in the newly-founded Israel. 

Eighteenth-century ‘Bombay’ also gave shelter to another strand of the Jewish diaspora with the arrival of the Iraqi and Syrian Jews fleeing Islamic persecution. Known as ‘Baghdadi Jews’, they dealt in pearls, textiles and opium, with leading families such as the Sassoons becoming bywords for near-mythical wealth. They gained titles from the British and established landmarks including the elegant David Sassoon Library in Mumbai and richly decorated synagogues such as the Jerusalem-facing Knesset Eliyahoo, a turquoise edifice on the edge of the historic Colaba district. As the 19th century unfurled, the family’s tentacles arched from Bombay via Hong Kong to London with both the wartime poet Siegfried Sassoon and the grand dame Marchioness of Cholmondeley descended from the exotic tribe.

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The years have dwindled Mumbai’s Jewish population to an almost imperceptibly beating pulse in the babble of India’s largest hub but fascinating remnants await discovery. The Taj Mahal Palace hotel has a local Jewish taxi driver, perhaps the only one left in the city, the wonderfully-named Mordecai Kumar, who drove me to the appealingly faded David Magen synagogue on the edge of the Byculla district. We spoke of his family, now all living in provincial towns in Israel and, while he lives under a Hindu alias, beamed with pride and emotion at his heritage both as a ‘Mumbaiker’ and a Bene Israel, reeling off hidden sites such as the grand Chinchpokli Cemetery, a haunting collection of mausoleums housing magnates, holocaust memorials and the nation’s first Miss India.

The story of the Jews is only a sliver of a chapter in the grand epic of Mumbai’s story but one that has helped to shape the city’s identity. A laissez-faire relationship that is perhaps best summed up with a line from the iconic novel Shantaram: '"I am French," he replied, admiring the dew on his half-raised glass, "I am gay, I am Jewish, and I am a criminal, more or less in that order. Bombay is the only city I have ever found that allows me to be all four of those things, at the same time"'


LITTLE BLACK BOOK

Tour:
A Jewish Heritage Tour of India – Journey through India’s Jewish past and present on a special tour of her Jewish heritage hubs.

Stay: 
Taj Mahal Palace is a justly revered and palatial hotel in the heart of Mumbai’s Colaba district. The property overlooks The Gateway of India, (partly funded by Sir David Sassoon) and is within walking distance of Nariman House, a Jewish landmark and other sights. 

Eat: Moshes Restaurant, Cuffe Parade – opened by a Jewish Indian, Moshe Shek, this renowned institution is the place to enjoy Mediterranean fusion food with a Levantine influence and the best cheesecake around.

Read: The Girl from Foreign by Sadia Shepard – a poetic memoir of family loss and discovery by a Pakistani American author who travels to India in search of her newly-discovered Bene Israel roots.


For more information or to start planning your tailor-made holiday to India, please contact us:

info@ampersandtravel.com   /  +44 (0) 207 819 9770



Client Testimonials

We really enjoyed the trip and were happy that we squeezed so much into a few short days. The Burmese people were lovely and the sites were fantastic. We really enjoyed the balloon ride and would highly suggest it to others in the future. The trip went super smoothly and a good time plus learning happened for all. Yangon was nice as the Strand was quite amazing and we of course loved the giant gold temple. Many thanks for all of your help and look forward to future travel with you.
- Wallace Family, Burma
Difficult to articulate just how good the service from you and your team really was. We know you will continue to do well and hope we have the chance to seek your assistance again before long.
- Mr & Mrs Manson, North India
Getting to Amanpulo from Manila was very simple and the beach was the most beautiful I’d ever been on; pristine white sand, not a single piece of rubbish in sight. You get your own solar powered golf buggy to drive around resort (and a butler at request). The views from the Hillside Casita were spectacular!
- Mr Wyburd, Philippines
Ampersand provided a bespoke and flexible holiday, tailored to my every whim. Their highly professional staff had only one goal which was to arrange an exceptional holiday and some unforgettable experiences in India. I have no hesitation in fully recommending them and they will be the first company I approach in the future - 10/10
- Anonymous, India
Ballyfin was great - we loved it! Best things were the amount of space, it felt like you had the whole place to yourself, the history of the house, and the staff. We'd definitely recommend it. Thanks very much for all the help getting it booked!
- Mr Wyburd, Ireland
I barely know where to begin... though a sincere 'thank you' would be the best. You have organised this trip perfectly. May was an inspiring and delightful companion in Myanmar – thoroughly professional and friendly at the same time. My accommodation throughout has been superb, especially The Governor's Residence and The Mandarin Oriental. The view from the cottage at Inle Lake was beautiful and I loved every moment of being there. And here I am now on the last leg of this extended holiday at my favourite place. I could stay here for ever, the peace, silence and surroundings all amazing, plus the people and the whole aura of Vana. Thank you for much, and I look forward to speaking to you on my return.
- Ms Margulies, Burma, India & Thailand
So many highlights to choose from! The hotels were amazing but Maya Villa was a highlight… I loved just hanging out in the hammock reading my book and watching the peacocks chase the cows!
- Krista Weir, Sri Lanka
Without question, you put together the best trip I have ever taken. We were shown around like visiting dignitaries, the hotels were fantastic and the itinerary was just right. Everybody I know will hear about how amazing Ampersand is!
- Leslie Siben, India
I thought the Ampersand team was outstanding. We couldn’t have hoped for anything more.
- Mr Geoffrey Johnson, India
We had a wonderful holiday - everything was perfect. Thank you for helping us to make a thoughtful plan to enjoy and make most out of our trip. The places we visited, the guides, the transportation and driver, the hotels selected... Everything was great!
- Jaime Benitez, South India
I would recommend Ampersand without any hesitation!!! The best travel agent that I’ve ever had. Everything – from the individual care and attention in planning the trip, through to the efficiency of the agents on the ground in India – was handled brilliantly. An absolutely first-class service all round!
- Matthew Annable, Rajasthan, India
Everything you did for us whilst we were away was hugely appreciated, and Ampersand has been exemplary in every way. I'll always recommend you!
- Mr Richard Stoughton, Sri Lanka
Difficult to choose the highlight of the trip, can’t choose between… 1) Taj Mahal & Oberoi Amarvilas. 2) Ranthambore. 3) Lake Palace. We have to say a particular thank you for selecting Parmod as our driver. He is a delightful and kind man who took our holiday and our enjoyment as his responsibility. Thank you for putting together such an amazing trip for us. The balance of city and rural destinations was perfect for us and the variety of rooms and hotel types brilliant. Our driver and guides also added so much to the trip with their knowledge of India’s history and culture and their willingness to discuss it both from a professional and personal angle.
- Carruthers family, North India
I had a very lovely time and was looked after splendidly. My first visit to India could not have been better, save for being longer! But I shall return at some point and I shall look to you to make the arrangements.
- Matthew Nicklin, North India
We have just returned back from a wonderful trip. Thank you very much for organising everything. The transfer was excellent – for once they had perfect car seats. The villa was lovely, just what we needed and the hotel had helpfully put us as far away as possible from everyone else. The breakfast buffet was the best I have ever seen – and I am slightly obsessive over breakfast!! There was an incredible choice, something for everyone and so beautifully presented. A real highlight of the trip. Thank you again for sorting everything - and at such short notice!
- Redmayne family, Phuket
Ampersand’s preparation, attention to detail and interaction before and during our trip show exactly why good travel agents have a role in today’s internet booking age. They were a delight to deal with!
- Mr David Wallace, North India

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