Back to Listing

Heritage & Hindustan: Nathdwara, A Divine Art Form

Heritage & Hindustan: Nathdwara, A Divine Art Form

‘One painting is the description of a thousand words’, so goes the old Rajasthani saying. To the artists of the Hindu temple town of Nathdwara, Rajasthan, nestled in the Aravalli Hills, art has been a traditional way of depicting sacred scenes to devotees without language. Hinduism is rich in imagery of gods, conveying and narrating its tales to countless illiterate worshippers over the centuries and producing many schools.

The school here is one of the most celebrated and distinctive in India, increasing Nathdwara tourism. A community for over three hundred years, its paintings are sought after by collectors the world over. This tight-knit collective can be found in the ancient houses of the town’s ‘Chitrakaron ki gully’ or ‘artists’ street’. There are only ten to twelve original painters left and they are holding out against the march of time and technology in an effort to preserve what they see as a divinely ordained vocation, making now the best time to visit Nathdwara. 

Nathdwara A Divine Art Form 4
First established in 1672, the school, according to legend, was founded by priests and artists of the Pushtimarg (‘Way of Grace’) sect escaping persecution from the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb. They were transporting an idol of Lord Shrinathji, an incarnation of the seven-year-old Lord Krishna, in a bullock cart to protect it from destruction when the cart sank deep into the mud at a tribal village. This was taken as a sign by the head priest and a temple for the deity was duly built, the sect living under the protection of the powerful Maharana of Mewar. The bullock cart is still to be seen at the temple, which has itself survived numerous attacks from other clans. Since then the history of Nathdwara (‘Gate of the Lord’), 43 km from Udaipur, has been both a place of pilgrimage and a hive of artistic industry, the aforementioned Shrinathji Temple Nathdwara now even having its own mobile app.

Many of the artists descend from the original band of holy refugees, and produce iconic pieces such as the world-famous Pichwai paintings. Traditionally used to show tales from Lord Krishna’s life, Pichwai (literally meaning ‘backdrop’) pictures are painted on cloth on a large scale and placed behind idols in Nathdwara temples and homes. Each painting is revered as an expression of the artist’s love and affection for his god. The works can take three to nine months to complete and are full of symbolism and detail.

Nathdwara A Divine Art Form 8
Lord Shrinathji is depicted in opulent settings, showing scenes or ‘Leelas’ from his life. He is shown with his left hand raised and the right hand resting at the waist, with a large diamond placed beneath the lips which is known as chibuk. The original temple deity is carved in black marble with images of two cows, lion, snake, two peacocks and one parrot engraved on it as well as accompanying sages. Precious jewels, some dating back to pre-Mughal period, adorn it along with ancient embroidery and threadwork. This lavish decoration is replicated in the Pichwai art with glorious gold embellishments and riots of colour surrounding the ebony figure. The backgrounds feature lush vegetation, cavorting milkmaids, and blissed-out musicians in an intricate weaving of culture, costume and sacred lore. The adult Krishna also appears, a radiant blue, standing on a Lotus flower and playing his flute which summons all to worship him. The bright hues were traditionally created from vegetable extracts but now largely replaced by mineral dyes. The celebratory atmosphere in the paintings reflect the sect’s belief that salvation is found in the joys of earthly life.

Parmanand S. Sharma is a sixth-generation artist and his days are, from the first dawn offering of water to the Sun, devoted to what he calls ‘revolving around the Lord’. His life, like those around him, is soaked in history and storytelling. ‘Pichwai paintings were made by our forefathers based on the songs sung in the temple or tales from the High Priest, the imagery was then replicated and sent to the temple for approval before being brought to life’. But times are changing and demand is growing for cheaper, mass produced art. Sharma’s son Neelesh adds, ‘the process is time-consuming and intricate, and we are pitted against modern embossed art’. The predecessors of artists such as the Sharmas painted with ‘a lot of patience, almost meditatively’, and from the paint-spattered, atmospheric studios, a profession under threat from the modern world is still defiantly producing works of art that can only be described in one word – celestial.

READ: Shrinathji: Pichwais: The Manifestation Of Pushtimarg. Partridge India, 2014

For more information or to start planning your tailor-made holiday to India, please contact us:

info@ampersandtravel.com // +44 (0) 207 819 9770

 



Client Testimonials

Difficult to choose the highlight of the trip, can’t choose between… 1) Taj Mahal & Oberoi Amarvilas. 2) Ranthambore. 3) Lake Palace. We have to say a particular thank you for selecting Parmod as our driver. He is a delightful and kind man who took our holiday and our enjoyment as his responsibility. Thank you for putting together such an amazing trip for us. The balance of city and rural destinations was perfect for us and the variety of rooms and hotel types brilliant. Our driver and guides also added so much to the trip with their knowledge of India’s history and culture and their willingness to discuss it both from a professional and personal angle.
- Carruthers family, North India
Without question, you put together the best trip I have ever taken. We were shown around like visiting dignitaries, the hotels were fantastic and the itinerary was just right. Everybody I know will hear about how amazing Ampersand is!
- Leslie Siben, India
Ampersand provided a bespoke and flexible holiday, tailored to my every whim. Their highly professional staff had only one goal which was to arrange an exceptional holiday and some unforgettable experiences in India. I have no hesitation in fully recommending them and they will be the first company I approach in the future - 10/10
- Anonymous, India
We really enjoyed the trip and were happy that we squeezed so much into a few short days. The Burmese people were lovely and the sites were fantastic. We really enjoyed the balloon ride and would highly suggest it to others in the future. The trip went super smoothly and a good time plus learning happened for all. Yangon was nice as the Strand was quite amazing and we of course loved the giant gold temple. Many thanks for all of your help and look forward to future travel with you.
- Wallace Family, Burma
We have just returned back from a wonderful trip. Thank you very much for organising everything. The transfer was excellent – for once they had perfect car seats. The villa was lovely, just what we needed and the hotel had helpfully put us as far away as possible from everyone else. The breakfast buffet was the best I have ever seen – and I am slightly obsessive over breakfast!! There was an incredible choice, something for everyone and so beautifully presented. A real highlight of the trip. Thank you again for sorting everything - and at such short notice!
- Redmayne family, Phuket
I barely know where to begin... though a sincere 'thank you' would be the best. You have organised this trip perfectly. May was an inspiring and delightful companion in Myanmar – thoroughly professional and friendly at the same time. My accommodation throughout has been superb, especially The Governor's Residence and The Mandarin Oriental. The view from the cottage at Inle Lake was beautiful and I loved every moment of being there. And here I am now on the last leg of this extended holiday at my favourite place. I could stay here for ever, the peace, silence and surroundings all amazing, plus the people and the whole aura of Vana. Thank you for much, and I look forward to speaking to you on my return.
- Ms Margulies, Burma, India & Thailand
Ballyfin was great - we loved it! Best things were the amount of space, it felt like you had the whole place to yourself, the history of the house, and the staff. We'd definitely recommend it. Thanks very much for all the help getting it booked!
- Mr Wyburd, Ireland
I would recommend Ampersand without any hesitation!!! The best travel agent that I’ve ever had. Everything – from the individual care and attention in planning the trip, through to the efficiency of the agents on the ground in India – was handled brilliantly. An absolutely first-class service all round!
- Matthew Annable, Rajasthan, India
So many highlights to choose from! The hotels were amazing but Maya Villa was a highlight… I loved just hanging out in the hammock reading my book and watching the peacocks chase the cows!
- Krista Weir, Sri Lanka
Ampersand’s preparation, attention to detail and interaction before and during our trip show exactly why good travel agents have a role in today’s internet booking age. They were a delight to deal with!
- Mr David Wallace, North India
Getting to Amanpulo from Manila was very simple and the beach was the most beautiful I’d ever been on; pristine white sand, not a single piece of rubbish in sight. You get your own solar powered golf buggy to drive around resort (and a butler at request). The views from the Hillside Casita were spectacular!
- Mr Wyburd, Philippines
Difficult to articulate just how good the service from you and your team really was. We know you will continue to do well and hope we have the chance to seek your assistance again before long.
- Mr & Mrs Manson, North India
We had a wonderful holiday - everything was perfect. Thank you for helping us to make a thoughtful plan to enjoy and make most out of our trip. The places we visited, the guides, the transportation and driver, the hotels selected... Everything was great!
- Jaime Benitez, South India
I had a very lovely time and was looked after splendidly. My first visit to India could not have been better, save for being longer! But I shall return at some point and I shall look to you to make the arrangements.
- Matthew Nicklin, North India
Everything you did for us whilst we were away was hugely appreciated, and Ampersand has been exemplary in every way. I'll always recommend you!
- Mr Richard Stoughton, Sri Lanka
I thought the Ampersand team was outstanding. We couldn’t have hoped for anything more.
- Mr Geoffrey Johnson, India

Let us keep you up to date

Sign up to our newsletter and never miss out on unmissable exclusive luxury experiences