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Seasons of India on a Grand Scale

Seasons of India on a Grand Scale

By Cosmo Brockway

One of the most visually rich elements of visiting India is the array of seasons to be found. From the tawny summer evenings of Rajasthan’s Thar Desert, the sand brushed with a burnished gold, to the rains sweeping over the Assam hills, each month brims with a promise of sights to delight on a grand scale. The Hindu calendar unfurls across six seasons and each is marked with myriad of festivals and celebrations which would take a lifetime to explore. Ampersand Travel has handpicked four of its favourite hotels and asked their owners and General Managers to describe the times of the year they personally look forward to.

Abode, Mumbai – the city’s first luxury boutique hotel and a serene retreat near the Colaba waterfront.
Jumana Lokhandwala, Owner

Diwali Festival Of Lights Itinerary 6
For us at Abode one of the most special times is Diwali in the early spring. Also known as the festival of lights, Diwali marks the new financial year for Hindus and Laxmi, the goddess of fortune is the main deity honoured during the festival.

During Diwali, little lamps called 'diye' are lit at the base of the doorways and corridors to signify the homecoming of the Lord Rama after years in exile. Flickering in the darkness, they are moving symbols of the thin veil between heaven and earth.

At Abode, it's the unofficial start of the new season, where our loyal guests return as beloved friends and we welcome others that are staying with us for the first time. One of our stand out ceremonies is to create a welcoming "rangoli", a decorative pattern fashioned from rice flour at the entrance of the hotel – the sight of which inevitably brings a smile to the face of each visitor – it is a sign they are now in a different world alight with colour and symbolism.

RAAS Devigarh, Near Udaipur, Rajasthan – Contemporary-designed 18th century Rajput palace
Nikhilendra Singh, Owner

Devi Garh Delwara North India 1
The monsoon has to be my favourite experience at RAAS Devigarh, if you are fortunate you can
witness the dry brown mountains turn green overnight. Because of its position perched high in the Aravalli hills, there is always a cool breeze that ripples through the carved marble screens or ‘Jalis’. Seated up on the restaurant terrace you can see the monsoon unfold over Mewar and sheets of rain going across our valley. Big grey clouds constantly billow and are full with the promise of baptising the land below. One of the first things I did when we acquired the palace was to open up all the windows in the
restaurant so guests could experience this astonishing sight. We play soothing music at sunset and pass around incense as an evening ritual. The drama of the scene is unparalleled.

Ahilya Fort, Maheshwar – Riverside fort situated in the sacred temple town of Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh
Aimeé Junker, Maîtresse de maison

Accueil Photo1
Each season brings a touch of wonder to Ahilya Fort due to its breathtaking location high above the holy Narmada River, worshipped as a goddess and the scene of great pilgrimages. The making of magic is a daily task here, and dining in surprise locations throughout the fort, gardens and ramparts (or maybe even on the river) is always a delight for guests and staff alike: “There are some moments in your life you never forget”, commented a guest after an evening of cocktails and music aboard a silently gliding riverboat. The Baneshwor Temple in the middle of the water is revered as the Centre of the Universe in Hinduism.

The stars here must have been in auspicious alignment during the recent season with a myriad of marriage proposals happening. One proposal took place swirled in dawn mists at the temple surrounded by the river, one in the forts secluded west turret at sunset, another under the stars on the terrace surrounded by Jasmine scent and the bells ringing from below…and no doubt countless others that went off quietly and unbeknownst. Being able to offer such experiences in the unique setting of the home of Prince Richard Holkar is beyond wonderful. "

Amanbagh, Alwar, Rajasthan – A glorious oasis of pale pink villas nestled in the Aravalli Hills
Karin Van Zyl, General Manager

Amanbagh Seasons Of India
My treasured season at the hotel is between October and November where the temperature is beginning to cool, making it the ideal time to be in Rajasthan. The village ladies I meet on my morning run, all on their way to work in the tobacco and wheat fields wear colourful ‘ludgi’, the oldest form of a sari, creating a splash of colour in the otherwise green landscape. That said, I also love the heart of the winter, between January and February, when the mustard flowers turn the landscape yellow and the red and orange dresses of the women stand in contrast to the stark hills and the yellow mustard fields. I can go on and on, the green parrots, the orange Flame of the Forest trees that blooms for just two weeks in April, turning the valley into a carpet of orange and waking up to the early morning mist hanging over the pool – enchantment!


READ:

Of Red Earth and Pouring Rain

Debut novel of author Vikram Chandra. Breathtakingly imaginative, epic and steeped in the Mahabharata tradition of Indian folklore. Chandra’s language captures the spirit of the Monsoon in the below lines:

“I want a certain density that encourages savouring. I want to slide warp over woof, I want to make knots. I want entanglement, unexpected connections, reverberations, and the weight of pouring rain on red earth. Mud is where life begins.”

WATCH:

Merchant Ivory’s Shakespeare Wallah

A black and white gem starring a young Felicity Kendal and capturing a theatrical troupes time in the hills during Monsoon in Post – Independence India.

 

For more information or to start planning your tailor-made holiday to India, please contact us:

info@ampersandtravel.com   /  +44 (0) 207 819 9770


Client Testimonials

So many highlights to choose from! The hotels were amazing but Maya Villa was a highlight… I loved just hanging out in the hammock reading my book and watching the peacocks chase the cows!
- Krista Weir, Sri Lanka
Difficult to choose the highlight of the trip, can’t choose between… 1) Taj Mahal & Oberoi Amarvilas. 2) Ranthambore. 3) Lake Palace. We have to say a particular thank you for selecting Parmod as our driver. He is a delightful and kind man who took our holiday and our enjoyment as his responsibility. Thank you for putting together such an amazing trip for us. The balance of city and rural destinations was perfect for us and the variety of rooms and hotel types brilliant. Our driver and guides also added so much to the trip with their knowledge of India’s history and culture and their willingness to discuss it both from a professional and personal angle.
- Carruthers family, North India
Without question, you put together the best trip I have ever taken. We were shown around like visiting dignitaries, the hotels were fantastic and the itinerary was just right. Everybody I know will hear about how amazing Ampersand is!
- Leslie Siben, India
We really enjoyed the trip and were happy that we squeezed so much into a few short days. The Burmese people were lovely and the sites were fantastic. We really enjoyed the balloon ride and would highly suggest it to others in the future. The trip went super smoothly and a good time plus learning happened for all. Yangon was nice as the Strand was quite amazing and we of course loved the giant gold temple. Many thanks for all of your help and look forward to future travel with you.
- Wallace Family, Burma
I would recommend Ampersand without any hesitation!!! The best travel agent that I’ve ever had. Everything – from the individual care and attention in planning the trip, through to the efficiency of the agents on the ground in India – was handled brilliantly. An absolutely first-class service all round!
- Matthew Annable, Rajasthan, India
Everything you did for us whilst we were away was hugely appreciated, and Ampersand has been exemplary in every way. I'll always recommend you!
- Mr Richard Stoughton, Sri Lanka
Difficult to articulate just how good the service from you and your team really was. We know you will continue to do well and hope we have the chance to seek your assistance again before long.
- Mr & Mrs Manson, North India
We had a wonderful holiday - everything was perfect. Thank you for helping us to make a thoughtful plan to enjoy and make most out of our trip. The places we visited, the guides, the transportation and driver, the hotels selected... Everything was great!
- Jaime Benitez, South India
I barely know where to begin... though a sincere 'thank you' would be the best. You have organised this trip perfectly. May was an inspiring and delightful companion in Myanmar – thoroughly professional and friendly at the same time. My accommodation throughout has been superb, especially The Governor's Residence and The Mandarin Oriental. The view from the cottage at Inle Lake was beautiful and I loved every moment of being there. And here I am now on the last leg of this extended holiday at my favourite place. I could stay here for ever, the peace, silence and surroundings all amazing, plus the people and the whole aura of Vana. Thank you for much, and I look forward to speaking to you on my return.
- Ms Margulies, Burma, India & Thailand
We have just returned back from a wonderful trip. Thank you very much for organising everything. The transfer was excellent – for once they had perfect car seats. The villa was lovely, just what we needed and the hotel had helpfully put us as far away as possible from everyone else. The breakfast buffet was the best I have ever seen – and I am slightly obsessive over breakfast!! There was an incredible choice, something for everyone and so beautifully presented. A real highlight of the trip. Thank you again for sorting everything - and at such short notice!
- Redmayne family, Phuket
Ampersand provided a bespoke and flexible holiday, tailored to my every whim. Their highly professional staff had only one goal which was to arrange an exceptional holiday and some unforgettable experiences in India. I have no hesitation in fully recommending them and they will be the first company I approach in the future - 10/10
- Anonymous, India
I thought the Ampersand team was outstanding. We couldn’t have hoped for anything more.
- Mr Geoffrey Johnson, India
Ampersand’s preparation, attention to detail and interaction before and during our trip show exactly why good travel agents have a role in today’s internet booking age. They were a delight to deal with!
- Mr David Wallace, North India
Ballyfin was great - we loved it! Best things were the amount of space, it felt like you had the whole place to yourself, the history of the house, and the staff. We'd definitely recommend it. Thanks very much for all the help getting it booked!
- Mr Wyburd, Ireland
I had a very lovely time and was looked after splendidly. My first visit to India could not have been better, save for being longer! But I shall return at some point and I shall look to you to make the arrangements.
- Matthew Nicklin, North India
Getting to Amanpulo from Manila was very simple and the beach was the most beautiful I’d ever been on; pristine white sand, not a single piece of rubbish in sight. You get your own solar powered golf buggy to drive around resort (and a butler at request). The views from the Hillside Casita were spectacular!
- Mr Wyburd, Philippines

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