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Varanasi: The holiest of holy cities

Varanasi: The holiest of holy cities

Varanasi is a place that I have been wanting to visit ever since my first trip to India, many years ago. Always described as ‘intense’ by those who have visited it, I have always been intrigued as to what this holiest of holy cities was really like in the flesh. The truth is that Varanasi is intense; a frantic city made up of ancient narrow back lanes where life, death, and everything in between, come into contact. Contrast this with the awe-inspiring magic and beauty of the ghats, at sunrise and at sunset, and the ancient crumbling ruins of Sarnath, where Buddha preached his first sermon, and you can begin to understand why Varanasi inspires, excites and exhausts. However, for those who love India, Varanasi is a must – it feels as though it is the living, breathing, pumping heart of the Hindu religion.

Sunrise 7
Varanasi’s ghats, bordering the mighty Ganges (Ganga) river, stretch for miles to the North and South of the city centre. A boat ride at both sunrise and sunset is an essential part of experiencing this unique place – as both times of the day offer completely different sights to be seen. On our first evening we boarded a boat and sailed south, stopping as the darkness descended to observe the evening aarti – a daily ceremony conducted by Hindu priests, accompanied by drumming, as fervent pilgrims and sadhus (holy men) look on. We lit hand-made candle offerings, made prayers and set them afloat on the Ganges. Following the aarti the city comes alive with activity, with people shopping, eating and walking through the streets. We tried lassi (a local yoghurt drink) and chai made at a local stall, which were both delicious.

Sunrise 2
Varanasi Blog 1

Sunset 1

Sunset 2

We rose early the following morning and headed back to the ghats to be on the river by sunrise. The morning offers a stark contrast to the evening and I loved observing men, women and children bathing in the river, the morning pujas, children reciting holy texts, cremation fires smouldering, small market stalls being set up, holy men and cows strolling along the ghats and the sun rising over the multi-coloured buildings and temples that border the water. I loved watching the city come alive.

Sunrise 4
Sunrise 3
In addition to the activity along the ghats, Varanasi has much to visit in the city itself; we recommend Vishwanath Temple and Gyan Vapi Mosque which sit side by side. Any city tour should definitely include a visit to the Benares University museum, Bharat Kala Bhavan, which is home to an impressive collection of miniature painting, contemporary Indian art and ancient sculpture.

Sarnath
Although visually not very impressive, Sarnath is a major site for those interested in Buddhism and archaeology. The small museum appears underwhelming on first appearances but is home to some of India’s major pieces of ancient sculpture and art – including Ashoka’s Lion Capital, which is, after small sculptures from the Indus Valley Civilisation, one of the oldest surviving pieces of sculpture to be found in the subcontinent. The deer park at Sarnath was also the location of Buddha’s first sermon, so became a major Buddhist centre of learning and sculpture. Although only one major stupa remains, the park is an interesting place to walk around – especially to observe the diversity of Buddhist tourists that have come from around the world to pay their respects.

SARNATH
Our base in Nadesar was the leafy spacious compound which comprises both the Taj Gateway and the colonial-era Nadesar Palace. Both are great, while very different, and allow you some much needed peace and quiet in between sightseeing. We loved the large swimming pool at The Gateway and the spacious stately home like feel of Nadesar Palace, with its high ceilings, wooden floors and historic memorabilia; taking breakfast and dinner on the terrace accompanied by a flute player allowed for a calming start and end to the day.

NADESAR PALACE GATEWAY HORSE AND CARRIAGE 1
NADESAR PALACE GATEWAY HORSE AND CARRIAGE 2

For more information or to start planning your tailor-made holiday to India, please get in touch with us:

info@ampersandtravel.com   /  +44 (0) 207 819 9770



Client Testimonials

Getting to Amanpulo from Manila was very simple and the beach was the most beautiful I’d ever been on; pristine white sand, not a single piece of rubbish in sight. You get your own solar powered golf buggy to drive around resort (and a butler at request). The views from the Hillside Casita were spectacular!
- Mr Wyburd, Philippines
So many highlights to choose from! The hotels were amazing but Maya Villa was a highlight… I loved just hanging out in the hammock reading my book and watching the peacocks chase the cows!
- Krista Weir, Sri Lanka
We had a wonderful holiday - everything was perfect. Thank you for helping us to make a thoughtful plan to enjoy and make most out of our trip. The places we visited, the guides, the transportation and driver, the hotels selected... Everything was great!
- Jaime Benitez, South India
Ampersand’s preparation, attention to detail and interaction before and during our trip show exactly why good travel agents have a role in today’s internet booking age. They were a delight to deal with!
- Mr David Wallace, North India
Ballyfin was great - we loved it! Best things were the amount of space, it felt like you had the whole place to yourself, the history of the house, and the staff. We'd definitely recommend it. Thanks very much for all the help getting it booked!
- Mr Wyburd, Ireland
I thought the Ampersand team was outstanding. We couldn’t have hoped for anything more.
- Mr Geoffrey Johnson, India
Everything you did for us whilst we were away was hugely appreciated, and Ampersand has been exemplary in every way. I'll always recommend you!
- Mr Richard Stoughton, Sri Lanka
I barely know where to begin... though a sincere 'thank you' would be the best. You have organised this trip perfectly. May was an inspiring and delightful companion in Myanmar – thoroughly professional and friendly at the same time. My accommodation throughout has been superb, especially The Governor's Residence and The Mandarin Oriental. The view from the cottage at Inle Lake was beautiful and I loved every moment of being there. And here I am now on the last leg of this extended holiday at my favourite place. I could stay here for ever, the peace, silence and surroundings all amazing, plus the people and the whole aura of Vana. Thank you for much, and I look forward to speaking to you on my return.
- Ms Margulies, Burma, India & Thailand
Ampersand provided a bespoke and flexible holiday, tailored to my every whim. Their highly professional staff had only one goal which was to arrange an exceptional holiday and some unforgettable experiences in India. I have no hesitation in fully recommending them and they will be the first company I approach in the future - 10/10
- Anonymous, India
I had a very lovely time and was looked after splendidly. My first visit to India could not have been better, save for being longer! But I shall return at some point and I shall look to you to make the arrangements.
- Matthew Nicklin, North India
We have just returned back from a wonderful trip. Thank you very much for organising everything. The transfer was excellent – for once they had perfect car seats. The villa was lovely, just what we needed and the hotel had helpfully put us as far away as possible from everyone else. The breakfast buffet was the best I have ever seen – and I am slightly obsessive over breakfast!! There was an incredible choice, something for everyone and so beautifully presented. A real highlight of the trip. Thank you again for sorting everything - and at such short notice!
- Redmayne family, Phuket
We really enjoyed the trip and were happy that we squeezed so much into a few short days. The Burmese people were lovely and the sites were fantastic. We really enjoyed the balloon ride and would highly suggest it to others in the future. The trip went super smoothly and a good time plus learning happened for all. Yangon was nice as the Strand was quite amazing and we of course loved the giant gold temple. Many thanks for all of your help and look forward to future travel with you.
- Wallace Family, Burma
Without question, you put together the best trip I have ever taken. We were shown around like visiting dignitaries, the hotels were fantastic and the itinerary was just right. Everybody I know will hear about how amazing Ampersand is!
- Leslie Siben, India
Difficult to articulate just how good the service from you and your team really was. We know you will continue to do well and hope we have the chance to seek your assistance again before long.
- Mr & Mrs Manson, North India
I would recommend Ampersand without any hesitation!!! The best travel agent that I’ve ever had. Everything – from the individual care and attention in planning the trip, through to the efficiency of the agents on the ground in India – was handled brilliantly. An absolutely first-class service all round!
- Matthew Annable, Rajasthan, India
Difficult to choose the highlight of the trip, can’t choose between… 1) Taj Mahal & Oberoi Amarvilas. 2) Ranthambore. 3) Lake Palace. We have to say a particular thank you for selecting Parmod as our driver. He is a delightful and kind man who took our holiday and our enjoyment as his responsibility. Thank you for putting together such an amazing trip for us. The balance of city and rural destinations was perfect for us and the variety of rooms and hotel types brilliant. Our driver and guides also added so much to the trip with their knowledge of India’s history and culture and their willingness to discuss it both from a professional and personal angle.
- Carruthers family, North India

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