A Tailormade Tour of West Bengal with Ampersand Founder James Jayasundera

I've recently returned from another extraordinary trip to India. I was there to experience a cultural phenomena that has been on my wishlist for many years: Kolkata's Durga Puja - a grand annual festival centred around the victory of the Hindu Goddess Durga over the demon Mahishasura. Below I've shared my highlights of the trip, from sipping tea in the Himalayan foothills to pandal hopping through the busy streets of Kolkata. 

Arrival in Bagdogra & Glenburn Tea Estate

Starting our journey in Kolkata, we flew to Bagdogra Airport and embarked on a hilly 4 hour drive to Glenburn Tea Estate. Set high in the Himalayas, this charming colonial-style property is perched atop a mountain, offering views of rolling tea fields and - weather depending - the snow-capped Himalayas, including Kanchenjunga, the 3rd highest mountain in the world. Arriving at this charming property we settled into our suites. Rooms have been designed by Bronwyn Latif and feature roll-top baths, four poster beds and impressive mountain views. In the evening, we enjoyed sundowners and snacks on the mountain-facing lawn, followed by a home-cooked 4-course dinner with fellow guests, which made for interesting and unusual conversation.

Explore Glenburn Tea Estate & Hiking Adventure

Our first full day began with a tour of the tea estate, observing tea pluckers at work and learning about the art of Darjeeling tea production. This was followed by a two-hour hike through the estate’s rolling tea plantations, ending with a refreshing swim in the river and a delicious and fresh picnic-style lunch in beautiful surroundings. After lunch, we returned to the hotel by car for a relaxing afternoon, sipping the estate's own Darjeeling tea in cosy alcoves dotted around the hotel and enjoying the views over High Tea and snacks.

Day Trip to Darjeeling & the Ghoom Monastery 

The next day we drove an hour to Darjeeling, stopping en route at the colonial-era Ghoom Railway Station. We started the day with breakfast at the Elgin Hotel, followed by a visit to the Ghoom Monastery - belonging to the Gelukpa (Yellow Hat) sect and famous for its 4.6m statue of the Maitreya Buddha - for a taste of Buddhist culture and spirituality. 

Arrival in Kolkata & Glenburn Penthouse 

After a relaxing stay in the Himalayan foothills, we returned to Kolkata, a city whose rich history often surprises visitors, in time for the annual Durga Puja Festival. Once the second most important city in the British Empire, Kolkata rivaled London, New York, and Shanghai in the 18th and 19th centuries as a hub of trade, empire, and influence. It mirrored London with its grand colonial architecture, public squares, and vibrant cultural diversity, bringing together communities from across India and beyond. Though its prominence declined after the capital shifted to Delhi, Kolkata’s role in shaping global trade and the modern world remains undeniable.

While in Kolkata, we stayed at Glenburn Penthouse, a boutique retreat perched high above the trees of Kolkata’s Maidan Park and home to fun Raj-inspired interiors. The property’s colonial style combines with contemporary amenities, including a rooftop infinity pool that overlooks the Maidan and Victoria Memorial, also known as ‘the Taj of the Raj’. We enjoyed very good food throughout our stay, and loved the convenience of being able to walk from the hotel to explore on foot to sightsee and shop for books - Kolkata being a famously literary city.

Pandal Hopping through Durga Puja Festival

Durga Puja, one of the world’s largest festivals, attracts around 10 million visitors, rivaling global events like Rio Carnival and Mardi Gras, yet remains little-known outside India. Held in September or October during the Hindu month of Ashwin, the five-day festival features elaborate idols, decorated pandals (temporary shrines), vibrant processions, and cultural performances, as families and communities gather for prayers, feasting, and rituals.

Along with thousands of other festival-goers, I spent a few days visiting some of the 46,000 pandals across the city - a practice known as “pandal hopping”. In the last 10 years, pandals have evolved into an artistic experience, with innovative designs like the Radio Pandal (pictured above) celebrating Bengal’s cultural icons. The festival culminates in immersing Durga idols into the Hooghly River, a breathtaking spectacle I was fortunate to witness from a celebratory cruise - an unforgettable way to end the trip.

The provisional dates for Durga Puja 2025 are 28th September - 2nd October with the celebrations and pandal hopping starting four or five days earlier. 

If you’re planning a trip to India next year, we’d thoroughly recommend incorporating this joyful and colourful festival into your itinerary. Please feel free to contact me and the team with any questions you have, or you can watch my story highlight on the Ampersand Instagram for a taster of what to expect.