Emily’s Tour of South India

Emily, Ampersand’s Senior Consultant, ended 2024 with a very special two week holiday to South India. A tried and tested Asia expert who has been at Ampersand for nearly 10 years, Emily has been visiting and organising trips to this part of the world for many years.

This particular 4-destination tour offered her the perfect mix of countryside, city and beach. From Hampi to Hyderabad, Goa and Mumbai, Emily shares her experience of each location and why this itinerary ticks all the boxes for your next Indian adventure.

First stop: Hampi

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Hampi is regarded as one of the most interesting and picturesque ancient sites in India, and is a must-visit for both history and adventure lovers.

The site has been occupied since the 3rd century BC, but at its height, it was the thriving capital of the Vijayanagar Empire (1336 – 1646). During the 16th century, when trade with other states and overseas was taking place, Hampi was already one of the richest and largest cities in the world, before it fell to the Deccan Sultanates.

What remains today is a sprawling ruined city with an astounding number of temples and monuments, all set against a magical landscape of rivers, sugarcane fields, palm trees and the famous boulder-strewn landscapes. The temples are everything you could ask for in an Indian temple complex; fastidious detail in the architecture, charming and fun decorations, dedicated worshippers and even a resident temple elephant!

Emily’s top tips:

• The sunrise viewpoint was fantastic to watch the landscape light up in the morning

• It’s worth doing some reading or chatting to your guide beforehand to learn about the roots of the Deccan cities which form a pivotal part of Indian history

Second stop: Hyderabad

A city where the north meets the south, Hyderabad is the fourth largest city in India and offers a really interesting - and totally charming - blend of history, culture and modernity. Built on the banks of the Musi River, the 400-year-old city is now a thriving IT hub with a futuristic skyline, tech parks like HITEC City and a population of 7.8 million; the polarised aspects of India are very apparent here.

Hyderabad’s history is fascinating, particularly for those interested in the period of British colonialism. Previously known - from ancient times - as Golkonda, meaning ‘shepherd’s hillock’, the city was, for a time, the only place in the world which traded diamonds, and therefore renowned the world over. From the must-visit historical sites such as Golkonda Fort, Qutb Shahi Tombs, Charminar and Mecca Masjid to hidden treasures like Paigah Tombs and Toli Masjid, the city is a treasure trove of historical architectural marvels.

For the art lovers there are important museums like the Salar Jung or the City Museum at Purani Haveli, and newer galleries like Kalakruti and Birla Modern Art Gallery. Hyderabad’s rich heritage is complemented by its bustling bazaars and world-famous cuisine, particularly the aromatic Hyderabadi biryani.

Emily’s top tips:

• This is a great destination for foodies. Hyderabadis love nothing more than to eat, and are known for their eclectic cuisine that blends multiple influences, which stem from their cosmopolitan past. Make sure to enjoy your special Street Food Tour

• For complete luxury and world-class service, there is nowhere better to stay in India than the Taj Falaknuma Palace

Taj Falaknuma Palace

One of Ampersand's Top 10 Romantic Retreats, Taj Falaknuma Palace or “Mirror of the Sky” is a destination in its own right! The former home of the Nizams of Hyderabad, this hugely impressive property was lovingly restored by Taj over a 10 year period and is arguably India’s best hotel offering. Set at 2000 feet, with glorious 360 degree views over the city and surrounding countryside, this unique hotel has a choice of 60 unique rooms and suites, an outdoor pool and Jiva Spa and two restaurants including Adaa, the hotel’s Hyderabadi fine dining restaurant.

Third Stop: Goa

Goa, India's smallest state, is a vibrant blend of beautiful palm-fringed beaches, Portuguese heritage and a laid-back lifestyle which attracts adventure seekers and relaxation enthusiasts alike.

It was the first place in India to be colonised by the Portuguese in 1510, an occupation that lasted 451 years. ‘Golden Goa’, named so for its incredible prosperity from the lucrative spice trade, reached its peak in the 16th century, before the Portuguese were booted out of Goa by India’s first prime minister, Nehru in 1961.

The Portuguese legacy is reflected in the baroque architecture, whitewashed churches, crumbling forts, traditional catholic ceremonies, stunning cathedrals and perhaps most notably, the food scene.

Emily’s top tips:

• North Goa is for those who want to explore and learn about Goan history, whilst the south is for those wanting perfect beaches. There are good beaches in the north, but you have to go a long way up to avoid the crowds

• The St Regis Goa Resort is spectacular if you like modern comfort and reliable luxury in a commercial resort, but for local character you can’t beat Ahilya by the Sea

Ahilya by the Sea

Tucked away at the far end of Coco Beach, just outside the quiet fishing village of Nerul (North Goa), Ahilya by the Sea is an idyllic family-run retreat with eight individually-styled rooms overlooking a working fishing beach. Originally a guesthouse, the property was taken over by Ahilya in 2015 as a boutique beach-side hotel; it is the sister hotel to one of Ampersand’s favourite secret gems, Ahilya Fort. Ideal for beach lovers and historians alike, this hotel is known for its gorgeous gardens, beautiful art collection and welcoming hospitality.

Fourth Stop: Mumbai

Often described as the New York of India (but with more heart!), Mumbai is a vibrant and bustling coastal city that is famous for its huge population (16 million people!), tiffin carriers and the extremes of wealth and poverty. However despite its size, Mumbai feels unexpectedly calm and controlled and is the place to be for young, fashionable people looking to make a name for themselves.

As the financial capital of the country, it buzzes with energy, blending modern skyscrapers with historic landmarks like the Gateway of India and Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus, one of the world's most spectacular railway stations. The city’s bustling streets are lined with iconic food stalls serving vada pav and pav bhaji, offering a taste of its culinary soul and Marine Drive makes an ideal evening escape, where you will be joined by hundreds of other people strolling by the sea.

Emily's top tip:

Give yourself time to really explore the city, as there is a huge amount to see and do here, from architecture tours, markets, the Elephanta Caves (on Elephanta Island), incredible shopping, Dhobi Ghat (the world's largest outdoor laundry), the home of Mahatma Ghandi, and a fantastic restaurant and bar scene.

If you would like to learn more about Emily's trip or how to plan your own luxury holiday to South India, please get in touch with her at emily@ampersandtravel.com. Or if you would like to see similar trips, take a look at our collection of South India itineraries below:

The Palaces, Wildlife, Plantations and Beaches of Karnataka Taj Palace Tour: The Ultimate Indian Indulgence