Q&A: James answers FAQ on a first trip to Japan

All of us at Ampersand are thrilled by the incredible response to our recent newsletter on Japan, it’s been wonderful to hear from so many of you! Your questions have been insightful, and we thought we’d take a moment to address some of the most frequently asked ones;

1. When is the best time to visit Japan?
2. How long should my first trip to Japan be?
3. Is Japan expensive?
4. How far ahead do we need to book for a tailor-made trip to Japan?
5. What’s the best way to get around Japan?
6. How easy is it to drive in Japan?
7. How much Japanese do I need to know?
8. What’s the best way to experience Japan’s food culture?
9. What’s the best way to deal with jet lag when travelling to Japan?
10. Is it worth staying in a ryokan?
11. What are some cultural customs to be aware of?
12. What are your favourite hotels in Japan and why?
13. What are Japan’s most unforgettable experiences beyond Tokyo and Kyoto? 
14. What’s something most travellers miss—but shouldn’t? 

1. When is the best time to visit Japan?

Whenever you have the time. Seriously, there’s no right or wrong time to go! Japan is spectacular year-round, and each season has its own unique charm. 

That said, if you have an aversion to crowds and paying top dollar, I’d personally avoid cherry blossom season (late March–early April). Yes, the sakura are beautiful, but so are quiet temples, available dinner reservations, and hotel rates that don’t make you wince. 

So, when should you go? 

Autumn (September–November) is my personal favourite. It has all the beauty of cherry blossom season but with fiery red and gold maple trees instead of pink petals—plus fewer tourists, better availability, and perfect temperatures for exploring. Kyoto, Nikko, and the Japanese Alps are breathtaking at this time of year. If it’s your first visit, and you’re looking for the perfect mix of beauty, ease and value, autumn is the time to go. 

Winter (December–February) is often overlooked, but it’s truly a hidden gem. Japan is one of the few places where winter enhances the experience—think snow-dusted temples, steaming onsen baths, and intimate kaiseki dinners. Kanazawa and Kyoto are particularly magical in the snow, and if skiing is your thing, Niseko and Hakuba have world-class powder. If you’re seeking a more mysterious, moody and intimate atmosphere, winter in Japan is absolutely stunning. 

Summer (June–August) can be hot and humid, but with the right clothing and pacing, it’s entirely enjoyable. The key is balance—pair city stops with cooler escapes like Hokkaido’s flower fields, the fresh mountain air of the Japanese Alps, or the coastal breezes of Naoshima. Cities can be sweltering, but Japan does air-conditioning exceptionally well—think museums, serene tea houses, and elegant hotel lounges. Summer comes with its rewards—lantern-lit festivals, spectacular fireworks, and age-old street processions that bring the country to life. If you’re into festivals and adventure, summer is wild! 

Spring (March–May)—if you must see cherry blossoms, go for it, but brace yourself. It’s crowded, expensive, and hotels are booked solid months in advance. That said, there’s nothing quite like a hanami picnic under the blossoms in Tokyo’s Shinjuku Gyoen, armed with sake and a bento box. If you don’t mind crowds and high prices, then yes, spring is magical—but you’ve been warned! 

2. How long should my first trip to Japan be?

It depends on how much time you can spare—but 10 to 14 days is ideal for a first trip. Anything shorter, and you’ll barely scratch the surface. Anything longer, and you’ll fall so deeply in love with Japan that re-entry into normal life might be a struggle. If this is your one and only trip to Japan, go for at least 12 days to get a meaningful mix of cities, culture, and countryside. But if you’re the type who falls for a place and already knows you’ll be back, then a well-planned 7–10 day trip can be the perfect introduction. Just be warned—Japan has a habit of pulling you back for more! 

If you have 7–10 days: 

You’ll need to prioritise. A classic Tokyo–Kyoto–Hakone itinerary works well, giving you a taste of modern Japan, its ancient traditions, and a touch of countryside charm. Tokyo’s energy, Kyoto’s temples, and Hakone’s hot springs are a fantastic introduction. If you want to swap out Hakone for somewhere a little less obvious, consider Kanazawa for samurai culture, world-class seafood, and traditional geisha districts without the crowds. 

If you have 12–14 days: 

This is where things get really interesting. You can keep the Tokyo–Kyoto–Hakone core, but add an extra stop or two: 

• Kanazawa – A refined alternative to Kyoto, with exquisite gardens, samurai history, and fewer tourists. 
• Naoshima – A dream for art lovers, this island is an immersive experience of cutting-edge contemporary art. 
• Koyasan – A mountaintop temple retreat where you can stay overnight in a monastery, wake up to morning prayers, and experience Japan’s spiritual side. 

The Japanese Alps (Takayama or Matsumoto) – Traditional wooden townhouses, sake breweries, and alpine scenery make for a wonderful contrast to the cities. 

If you have 3 weeks or more: 

You’re in for an unforgettable journey. You can comfortably explore Tokyo, Kyoto, and the countryside, with time for more remote areas: 

• Shikoku – Home to one of Japan’s great pilgrimage routes and breathtaking natural beauty. 
• The Noto Peninsula – Rugged coastal landscapes and artisans who still practise their craft as they have for centuries. 
• Okinawa – A complete contrast to mainland Japan, with pristine beaches, a unique island culture, and outstanding diving. 
• Tōhoku – One of Japan’s least-visited but most rewarding regions, with ancient samurai towns, dramatic landscapes, and world-class hot springs. 

3. Is Japan expensive?

Japan was once considered one of the most expensive countries in the world, particularly during the economic boom of the 1980s. However, with decades of low inflation, many everyday expenses have remained surprisingly reasonable. That said, demand has driven up prices in certain areas—particularly luxury hotels, exclusive dining, and high-end produce, where competition for the best ingredients and experiences has intensified.

One of the things that makes Japan fascinating is its contradiction of frugality and indulgence. The Japanese are thoughtful spenders, always looking to maximise value rather than simply seeking the cheapest option. Many are careful in their day-to-day purchases, but when they do spend, they prioritise quality, craftsmanship, and once-in-a-lifetime experiences. 

The key to experiencing Japan well is knowing where to splurge and where to save. For every costly hotel or restaurant, there is always a high-quality, great-value alternative—so you can choose where to invest and where to be smart. 

Where to Spend 

Luxury hotels and ryokans – The most sought-after properties, particularly in Tokyo and Kyoto, command high prices and book out months in advance. A top-tier ryokan with a private onsen and kaiseki dining can cost £800+ per night, while suites in Tokyo’s top hotels can go well beyond that. However, these places offer an experience rather than just accommodation—a level of service and refinement that is unmatched. 

Fine dining – Japan has more Michelin-starred restaurants than anywhere else in the world, and a meal at an elite kaiseki or sushi counter can range from £250–£500 per person. These experiences are worth planning for, and reservations must often be secured well in advance. 

Private guides – A knowledgeable guide transforms visits to complex cultural sites, temples, or art destinations. That said, we encourage clients to also have independent time to explore at their own pace. 

Where to Save (Without Compromising on Experience) 

For every costly luxury hotel, there’s a superb mid-range alternative – Boutique hotels, traditional machiya townhouses, and even some modern business hotels provide fantastic accommodation at a fraction of the cost. 

For every high-end kaiseki meal, there’s an incredible casual dining experience – Some of Japan’s best food isn’t Michelin-starred—it’s in hole-in-the-wall ramen shops, standing sushi bars, and lively izakayas where you’ll eat shoulder-to-shoulder with locals. 

Taxis instead of private drivers – Private cars with drivers in Japan are particularly costly, but taxis are safe, clean, and a fraction of the price. For countryside travel, a mix of train and taxi often makes more sense than a full-day private car service. 

Public transport – Japan’s Shinkansen (bullet train) is world-class—fast, spotless, and incredibly efficient. First-class (Green Car) seats are spacious and comfortable, making them a great option for longer journeys. Local transport in Tokyo and Kyoto is also seamless and well-signposted. 

Japan Offers Value in Unexpected Ways 

• Service is included – There’s no tipping culture in Japan, yet the level of hospitality is arguably the best in the world. 
• Temple and garden entry fees are minimal – Some of Japan’s most breathtaking cultural sites charge as little as £2–£5 for entry. 
• Depachika rival fine dining – The basement food halls of Mitsukoshi, Isetan, and Takashimaya offer gourmet meals that match top restaurants but at a fraction of the price. 

Japan is a premium destination, but spending smartly enhances the experience rather than diminishing it. The beauty of travelling in Japan is that you can control the balance of luxury and value. Splurge on unforgettable hotels, world-class dining, and expert guides where needed, but embrace public transport, taxis, and casual dining to create a richer, more authentic journey. It’s about experiencing Japan in the most seamless yet engaging way possible—just as the Japanese do. 

4. How far ahead do we need to book for a tailor-made trip to Japan?

The short answer: 10-12 months in advance. 

Japan is one of the world’s most in-demand travel destinations, and availability at the best hotels, ryokans, and restaurants can be extremely limited—especially in peak seasons like cherry blossom (March–April) and autumn foliage (October–November). 

For a seamless tailor-made experience, I recommend the following booking windows: 

• 12 months in advance – Ideal for securing top ryokans, Michelin-starred restaurants, and highly sought-after hotels in Tokyo and Kyoto. 
• 9–6 months in advance – Usually sufficient for well-planned itineraries outside of peak seasons, though flexibility may be required for specific properties or experiences. 
• Under 6 months – Still possible, but options will be more limited, especially for iconic hotels. 

Key things to consider: 

• Kyoto is the trickiest for accommodation. Luxury hotels and ryokans book out months (sometimes a year) in advance, particularly during cherry blossom and autumn. 
• Guides and experiences are often fully booked in peak season. The best guides, private cultural experiences, and art-focused itineraries are in high demand.  
• Restaurants require careful planning. Many of Japan’s most exclusive dining spots have only a handful of seats and require reservations long before arrival. Last-minute bookings, even if you’re willing to pay, are rarely possible. 

Can you book a last-minute trip? 

It’s possible, but it will require flexibility—either in travel dates, choice of accommodation, or willingness to venture beyond the usual hotspots. Our teams in Japan are reluctant to take any enquiries that are less than 4 months ahead of time. 

5. What’s the best way to get around Japan?

Japan makes getting around incredibly easy—it just depends on your style of travel. 

Shinkansen (Bullet Train): Fast, efficient, and a joy to ride. It’s hands down the best way to cover long distances. The trains are spotless, punctual to the second, and gliding into Kyoto at 320 km/h while sipping a cold beer and bento in hand, is one of life’s great pleasures. 

Walking & Cycling: The best way to experience Japan’s cities and countryside. Kyoto, Kanazawa, and smaller towns are particularly walkable, and many places—like the art island of Naoshima—are best explored by bike. 

Taxis: Surprisingly good value, especially for short distances. Impeccably clean, doors open automatically, and the drivers are often in gloves and ties. 

Driving: Super easy, often overlooked, and highly rewarding. Outside the big cities, renting a car lets you escape into the mountains, countryside, and coastal roads. Japan’s roads are immaculate, drivers are polite, and the navigation is excellent. Perfect for places like Hokkaido, the the Noto Peninsula, and Kyushu. 

Hiring a Driver: A luxurious but costly option. Ideal if you want door-to-door service, especially in rural areas or for a multi-stop itinerary with luggage. 

So, what’s the best option? 

• For first-time visitors: Shinkansen + taxis + walking. 
• For those wanting more freedom: Rent a car outside the cities. 
• For the ultra-comfortable option: A private driver—though expect to pay a premium. 

Japan has one of the most efficient and reliable transport systems in the world, but mixing it up—trains, taxis, walking, and the occasional rental car—often leads to the best experiences. 

6. How easy is it to drive in Japan?

Incredibly easy—Japan is one of the easiest countries in the world to drive in. I am not a very confident driver and yet I have done it three times and found it super straightforward and easy. Roads are immaculate, drivers are polite, and navigation is seamless. Unlike many other places, driving in Japan is stress-free and enjoyable, particularly outside the big cities. 

Renting a car adds a huge amount of flexibility and independence, allowing you to explore at your own pace, uncover hidden gems, and turn your trip into a real adventure. There’s something deeply satisfying about discovering a secluded onsen, a coastal fishing village, or a countryside shrine, all because you had the freedom to go off the beaten path. 

And the best part? Satnav works brilliantly—most rental cars come with English-language GPS, and Google Maps is highly reliable for road navigation. 

Where Driving Makes a Trip Even Better 

• Hokkaido – Endless open roads, rolling landscapes, and national parks—driving here is a dream.
• The Noto Peninsula – Rugged coastlines, artisan workshops, and fishing villages—best explored by car. 
• Kyushu – Volcanoes, hot springs, and stunning scenic drives.
• The Japanese Alps – Perfect for a road trip through Matsumoto, Takayama, and Kamikochi. 
• Shikoku & the Iya Valley – One of Japan’s most remote and beautiful regions. 
• Kyoto & Surrounds – While Kyoto itself is easy to explore by foot and public transport, hiring a car can be surprisingly useful. It lets you whizz between temples, discover lesser-known sites, and make spontaneous stops. It’s also a great option for day trips to places like Nara, Arashiyama, or Lake Biwa, which can feel like a hassle with public transport or restrictive with a private driver. 

Where You Don’t Need a Car 

• Tokyo & Osaka – Traffic, expensive parking, and world-class public transport make driving more trouble than it’s worth.  

Good to Know Before You Drive 

• Japan drives on the left – If you’re used to the UK or Australia, it’s an easy transition. 
• You need an International Driving Permit (IDP) – Japan doesn’t recognise UK, US, or Australian licences alone. Get an IDP before you go. 
• Car hire is straightforward – Multilingual GPS, efficient rental services, and easy pick-ups at train stations. 
• Tolls can add up – But the expressways are fast, well-maintained, and a joy to drive on. Get an ETC card for automatic toll payments. 
• Petrol stations are often full-service – Just say "mantan onegaishimasu" for a full tank. 

7. How much Japanese do I need to know?

Not much—but a little effort goes a long way. 

Japan is one of the easiest non-English-speaking countries to navigate. Major cities have English signage, transport is well-organised, and Google Translate works wonders. With your portable WiFi (which we include on all our trips), you’ll have no trouble getting by. 

That said, knowing a few key phrases will make your experience far more enjoyable. 

Key Phrases Worth Learning 

Tip - The "u" at the end of words is generally softened or nearly silent in natural speech. 

Greetings 

Konnichiwa (Hello) 
Ohayou gozaimasu (Good morning) 
Konbanwa (Good evening) 
Arigatou gozaimasu (Thank you) 
Dōmo arigatō (A friendly "thank you very much", often shortened to Dōmo) 

Essential Politeness 

Sumimasen (Excuse me / Sorry) – Your go-to phrase for getting attention or politely moving through crowds. 
Onegaishimasu (Please) – Used when requesting something, ordering in restaurants, or asking for help. 
Wakarimasen (I don’t understand) – Handy when someone speaks too fast. 
Oishii (Delicious) – Used in all situations, from casual street food to fine dining. 

Restaurants 

Irasshaimase – A welcome greeting from staff when you enter. No reply required—just a nod or smile. 
Nan-mei sama desu ka? (How many people in your party?) 
Okaikei onegaishimasu (Bill, please) – You can also use the hand gesture of drawing a small squiggle in the air. 

Taxis & Directions 

Taxi drivers rarely speak English, so having your destination written in Japanese or showing it on your phone helps. 

8. What’s the best way to experience Japan’s food culture?

Japan is one of the world’s great food destinations, and the best way to experience it is to mix things up—from exquisite multi-course kaiseki meals to standing shoulder-to-shoulder with locals in tiny, smoke-filled izakayas. 

Kaiseki – The Art of Japanese Fine Dining

If you want to experience the height of Japanese culinary tradition, book a kaiseki meal—a meticulously curated, multi-course experience where seasonality, presentation, and flavour are everything. Kyoto is the heartland of kaiseki, with some of the finest restaurants hidden in alleyways or behind discreet noren curtains. Some of my favourites include: 

Oryori Kifune, Kanazawa – Elegant yet intimate, with exceptional seafood. 
Kikunoi, Kyoto – A legendary kaiseki experience, deeply rooted in Kyoto’s traditions. 
Zeniya, Kanazawa – A masterclass in kaiseki that blends tradition with innovation. 

Important Note: Cancelling a restaurant booking in Japan—even if you pay the cancellation fee—is considered extremely bad form. Many top restaurants have only a handful of seats, so a last-minute cancellation is a serious inconvenience. For this reason, we recommend not booking important meals for your first night or two, allowing time to adjust to the time difference. 

Sushi – From the Sublime to the Everyday

Tokyo has some of the best sushi in the world, but you don’t need to splurge on Michelin-starred omakase to eat well. Some of my favourite ways to enjoy sushi: 

Omakase at a top counter – If you want the absolute best sushi, book a high-end omakase experience, where the chef guides you through the finest cuts of the day. 
Standing sushi bars – Quick, affordable, and excellent. Perfect for solo travellers or an impromptu bite between sightseeing. 
Conveyor belt sushi (kaitenzushi) – Casual but fun, and a great way to try different varieties without breaking the bank. 

Izakayas – Where Japan Comes Alive

If you want to get under the skin of Japanese food culture, go to an izakaya. These lively, informal drinking spots are where locals unwind with beer, sake, and an ever-changing menu of small plates. Expect everything from grilled skewers (yakitori) to sashimi, tempura, and creative seasonal dishes. Some of the best izakayas are found in: 

Omoide Yokocho, Tokyo – A tiny, lantern-lit alley lined with smoke-filled yakitori joints. 
Pontocho, Kyoto – Atmospheric izakayas along the river, with both casual and refined options. 
Kiguramachi, Kanazawa – A district known for some of the best seafood-focused izakayas in Japan. 

Ramen & Regional Noodles – Quick, Cheap, and Unmissable

Japan’s regional noodle culture is a world of its own. A few must-tries: 

Tonkotsu Ramen, Fukuoka/Hakata – Rich, creamy pork broth. 
Shoyu Ramen, Tokyo – A deep, soy-based broth. 
Soba, Nagano – Hand-rolled buckwheat noodles, often served cold with dipping sauce. 

Depachika – Japan’s Incredible Food Halls

Department store food halls, known as depachika, are one of Japan’s great hidden gems. Found in the basement levels of Mitsukoshi, Takashimaya, Isetan, and other department stores, these food halls offer a dazzling array of gourmet food, from pristine sushi to perfectly packaged wagashi (traditional sweets). Depachika are ideal for grabbing an exquisite meal on the go or assembling a luxury picnic for a train journey—an experience in itself. 

Mitsukoshi (Ginza, Tokyo) – A legendary food hall, offering everything from Michelin-starred delicacies to beautifully wrapped confections. 
Isetan (Shinjuku, Tokyo) – A must-visit for gourmet food lovers, with an unparalleled selection of fresh produce, wagyu beef, and high-end patisserie. 
Daimaru (Osaka & Kyoto) – A fantastic spot for high-quality sushi and Kyoto’s delicate seasonal sweets. 

Street Food & Market Hopping

Some of the best bites in Japan aren’t found in restaurants—they’re eaten on the street or at bustling local markets. 

Omicho Market, Kanazawa – Amazing seafood, including fresh oysters and grilled eel skewers. 
Tsukiji Outer Market, Tokyo – Sushi, tamagoyaki (Japanese omelette), and other fresh seafood delights. 
Dotonbori, Osaka – The epicentre of Japan’s best street food, from takoyaki (octopus balls) to okonomiyaki (savoury pancakes). 

Japan’s food scene is all about contrast—high-end and humble, refined and rowdy, traditional and innovative. The best way to experience it? Be curious, be open-minded, and eat everything you can. And when it comes to fine dining, be considerate with reservations—book only when you’re sure you can make it, so others can enjoy the experience too. 

9. What’s the best way to deal with jet lag when travelling to Japan?

The time difference between home and Japan can be brutal, but I’ve found a few things that help: 

• Four days before departure: Wake up one hour earlier each day so that by day four, you’re waking up four hours earlier than usual. 
• Book a flight that arrives in the evening: That way, you can go straight to sleep and wake up feeling refreshed. 
• Use sleeping pills (if they work for you): They help reset your body clock. 
• Returning home: I get up as soon as I wake up, rather than lying there trying to force myself back to sleep. I’ve been known to start work at 2am after landing—but by 9am, I’ve already had seven hours of uninterrupted work, and by day three, I’m back to normal. 

10. Is it worth staying in a ryokan?

Absolutely—but it’s not for everyone. A ryokan stay is one of Japan’s most unique and immersive experiences, offering a level of hospitality and tradition you won’t find anywhere else. That said, choosing the right ryokan is key—some are tranquil havens of refined luxury, while others can feel a little rigid or outdated. 

What Makes a Ryokan Special? 

Omotenashi (Japanese hospitality) at its finest – Service is deeply intuitive; staff anticipate your needs before you do. 
A different kind of luxury – A ryokan isn’t about opulence in the Western sense but about space, tranquillity, and a deep connection to nature. 
Tatami mats and futons – Sleeping on a futon on traditional tatami mats is part of the experience. Some high-end ryokan now offer Western-style beds for those who prefer them. 
Kaiseki dining – Dinner is a meticulously curated multi-course feast, often served in-room or in a private dining area. The best ryokan meals rival Michelin-starred restaurants. 
Onsen (hot springs) – Many ryokan have their own natural hot spring baths, either communal or private. A soak before bed is one of Japan’s great pleasures. 

Who Will Love a Ryokan Stay? 

Those who appreciate peace, tradition, and slow travel – A ryokan stay is about unwinding and embracing a slower pace. 
Anyone seeking an unforgettable onsen experience – There’s nothing quite like bathing under the stars in a private outdoor hot spring. 

Who Might Struggle? 

People who prefer flexibility – Ryokan have set meal times and expect guests to follow customs (e.g., wearing a yukata, removing shoes). 
Those who need firm beds – Traditional futons are comfortable but low to the ground. Some luxury ryokan now offer Western beds. 
Anyone uncomfortable with communal bathing – Private onsen rooms are an option, but most ryokan have shared baths where nudity is the norm. 

How to Choose the Right Ryokan 

Ryokan styles and quality vary widely. Some of the best include: 

Gôra Kadan, Hakone – A refined retreat with impeccable service, private open-air baths, and easy access from Tokyo. 
Myojinkan, Matsumoto – A modern ryokan with organic kaiseki cuisine and serene outdoor onsen. 
Yamanoo, Kanazawa – A family-run, four-room ryokan with exceptional seasonal dining. 
Tawaraya, Kyoto – Kyoto’s most famous ryokan, offering understated perfection and absolute discretion. 
Hoshinoya Tokyo – A modern, urban ryokan with tatami-lined corridors, kimono-clad staff, a rooftop onsen, and impeccable service. Ideal for those who want a ryokan experience without leaving the city. 

A ryokan stay is one of the most memorable parts of a Japan trip, but it’s best for one or two nights rather than an entire trip. The key is choosing a high-quality ryokan in a beautiful setting, where the service and cuisine are as exceptional as the surroundings. For those wanting a blend of tradition and modern comfort, Hoshinoya Tokyo is an excellent choice. 

11. What are some cultural customs to be aware of?

Japan’s social etiquette is deeply ingrained, but visitors are given a lot of grace—as long as you’re respectful and make an effort, your attempts will always be appreciated. Etiquette is based on thoughtfulness, respect, and consideration for others. Even if you don’t get everything right, approaching situations with a bit of humility and a smile will be met with warmth and kindness. 

Here are some customs worth knowing before you go: 

Shoes Off Indoors – And Watch Where You Step!

• Always remove your shoes when entering a ryokan, temples, private homes, and some restaurants. 
• Never step on tatami mats with shoes—even for a second. Look for a raised platform or mat at the entrance. 
• Indoor slippers are often provided—but these must also be removed before stepping onto tatami. 
• Toilet slippers are separate—they should stay in the bathroom (forgetting to switch back is a classic tourist mistake!). 

Bowing – A Sign of Respect (But No Need to Overdo It)

Bowing is the standard greeting, a way to say thank you or apologise. 

• As a visitor, a slight nod is enough—no need to overdo it. 
• Avoid the ‘Namaste’ gesture (palms together)—though well-meaning, it’s not a Japanese custom. 

Silence on Public Transport

• Trains and buses are eerily quiet—phone calls, loud conversations, or playing music on speaker are considered rude. 
• If you must take a call, move to the designated ‘phone areas’ on trains. 

No Loud Talking in Restaurants (or Anywhere, Really)

• Even in casual settings, Japanese people generally speak softly while dining. 
• This applies to hotels, temples, and public spaces. Western visitors are often the loudest people in the room without realising it. 

Money & Tipping (or Not)

• Tipping is not expected in Japan—leaving extra cash can actually confuse or embarrass people. 
• Use the small tray provided when paying at shops and restaurants rather than handing money directly to the cashier. 
• Japan is very much a cash society so make sure you always have some cash. There is no shortage of ATMs but they are found in convenience stores rather than banks.  

Chopstick Etiquette

• Never stick chopsticks upright into rice—it resembles a funeral ritual. 
• Don’t pass food from chopsticks to chopsticks—this is also linked to funerals. 
• Use the opposite end of chopsticks when taking food from a shared dish. 

Public Bath (Onsen) Etiquette

• Wash and rinse your body thoroughly at the shower stations before entering the onsen. 
• The bath itself is for soaking, not washing. 
• Tattoos can be an issue—they are traditionally associated with the yakuza (Japanese mafia). Many high-end ryokan now allow them, but it’s best to check or cover them with a plaster if needed. 

There Are Almost No Rubbish Bins

• Japan is immaculately clean, yet public bins are almost non-existent. 
• You’ll need to carry your own rubbish—this is why locals often neatly fold wrappers and stash them in their bags. 
• Convenience stores have recycling bins, but only for items purchased there. 

No Smoking While Walking

• Unlike most countries, outdoor smoking is not common. 
• Japan has designated smoking areas—many of them indoors rather than outside. 
• Smoking while walking is strictly prohibited in many areas and can result in a fine. 

Be Mindful of What You Photograph

• Avoid taking photos of strangers without permission, especially in quieter areas. 
• Some places, such as temples, shrines, and private gardens, prohibit photography—look for signs. 
• If photographing food or a shop display, it’s polite to ask first. 

12. What are your favourite hotels in Japan and why?

Few countries approach hospitality with the same level of thoughtfulness and precision as Japan. Whether it’s a cutting-edge urban retreat or a centuries-old ryokan, the best hotels here are more than just places to stay—they are experiences in themselves. 

Three of my current favourites: 

• Aman Tokyo – Nowhere offers a better immersion in modern Japanese aesthetics than Aman Tokyo. With razor-sharp design, jaw-dropping skyline views, and a serene, minimalist atmosphere, it’s an oasis above the city. The service is flawless, the spa is exceptional, and after a long flight, there’s no better place to recalibrate before stepping into the energy of Tokyo. 

• Yamanoo, Kanazawa – With only four rooms, run by the same family for five generations, this intimate ryokan feels like stepping into a Japanese fairy tale. The kaiseki cuisine is outstanding, prepared by the owners themselves, and the service embodies true omotenashi (Japanese hospitality). Staying here is a deeply authentic experience, far removed from the usual hotel stay. 

• Hotel Seiryu Kiyomizu, Kyoto – A former elementary school turned boutique hotel, this property offers stunning elevated views over Kyoto and is set in one of the city’s most picturesque historic districts. It’s ideal for those who love to explore on foot, as the area’s narrow, one-way roads can be tricky for vehicles. Blending heritage with quiet luxury, it offers an experience that feels both rooted in history and refreshingly contemporary. 

A much-anticipated reopening in late 2025 is the Park Hyatt Tokyo. This iconic hotel, made famous by Lost in Translation, has always impressed me with how beautifully maintained it remained for nearly 30 years—a rarity in luxury hotels. Now undergoing a complete transformation, I can’t wait to see how it evolves. I’ve always loved starting and ending my Japan trips in Tokyo, and there’s something about this side of town that offers the perfect farewell—or reintroduction—to the city. 

Each of these hotels offers a different perspective on Japan—whether it’s the urban spectacle of Tokyo, the old-world charm of Kanazawa, or the timeless beauty of Kyoto. The best choice depends on the experience you’re looking for. 

13. What are Japan’s most unforgettable experiences beyond Tokyo and Kyoto?

Some of my most unforgettable experiences often happen outside the major cities. While Tokyo and Kyoto are undeniable highlights, Japan rewards those who venture further. Some of my most memorable experiences have been in places where tradition, nature, and artistry converge. Whether it’s a ryokan that feels like stepping into a storybook, a monastery where time slows down, or a tiny seafood stall where the uni is life-changing, these moments are what make travel to Japan truly extraordinary. 

Staying at Ryokan Kurashiki – A Step Back in Time

Kurashiki is a beautifully preserved canal town with white-walled merchant houses, ivy-covered storehouses, and a thriving arts and crafts scene. Staying at Ryokan Kurashiki was a highlight—not just for its historic charm, but for the gracious hospitality of Nakamura-san, who made us feel like treasured guests in her home. Strolling through the old quarter and exploring the artisanal shops was an absolute delight. 

Eko-in, Koyasan – A Monastic Experience Like No Other

Mount Koya (Koyasan) is one of Japan’s most sacred sites, home to ancient temples and a mysterious, moss-covered cemetery that feels like something from a dream. Staying at Eko-in, a working Buddhist monastery, was unforgettable. The monks were incredible—taking part in the morning prayers and later the fire ceremony was deeply moving. It’s a rare opportunity to step into a world of spiritual tradition and experience a slower, more contemplative way of life. 

Cycling Around Naoshima – Japan’s Island of Art

Naoshima is like nowhere else—a remote island transformed into a living gallery, where cutting-edge contemporary art blends with traditional fishing villages and stunning coastal scenery. Renting an e-bike was the best decision; it gave us the freedom to glide between the Chichu Art Museum, Benesse House, and the whimsical Yayoi Kusama pumpkin at our own pace. It’s one of those places where the journey itself—passing quiet beaches and island shrines—is just as magical as the art. 

Seafood & Spectacle at Kanazawa’s Omicho Market

Kanazawa is a paradise for seafood lovers, and Omicho Market is at the heart of it all. The sheer variety of seafood on display—gleaming ruby-red tuna, plump sea urchins, and snow crabs stacked like samurai in formation—was mesmerising. But eating there was even better—kaisendon (sashimi rice bowls) piled high with the freshest seafood, grilled eel skewers, and the kind of perfect oysters that make you pause in silence. 

The Noto Peninsula – Coastal Beauty & Living Traditions

For those willing to go further off the beaten path, the Noto Peninsula is rugged, remote, and absolutely worth the journey. It’s a place where lacquer artisans still practise their craft as they have for centuries, and where wild coastal landscapes meet tiny fishing villages. It’s Japan at its most untouched—perfect for those looking for something different. To get the most out of this experience, rent a car! 

14. What’s something most travellers miss—but shouldn’t?

A sense of ease. Many first-time visitors arrive in Japan expecting it to be intimidating or difficult to navigate, but it’s actually one of the safest, easiest, and most visitor-friendly countries in the world. 

• Don’t be afraid to explore without a guide – Japan’s transport is incredibly efficient, signage is clear, and even in remote areas, locals will go out of their way to help you. 
• Taxis and public transport are stress-free – Unlike in many countries, taxis in Japan are spotless, safe, and reasonably priced for short distances. Public transport is intuitive and exceptionally well-organised. 
• You don’t need to over-plan every moment – Some of the best experiences come from wandering into a hidden garden, stumbling upon a family-run izakaya, or discovering a tiny temple where you have the place to yourself. 

Instead of approaching Japan with a sense of fear or over-scheduling every detail, leave room for spontaneity, curiosity, and the joy of simply being there. 

If you have any specific questions feel free to call or email James or contact Catriona Deredas or Emily Gillman who also know Japan well.