Deogarh Mahal
Deogarh

Perched high on a hilltop in the heart of rural Rajasthan, the commanding Deogarh Mahal rises like a mirage from the dusty plains; a palatial labyrinth of turrets, domes, battlements and bougainvillaea-draped courtyards. This 17th-century fortress-palace, once home to the noble Deogarh family, now plays host to travellers seeking a regal, real-world Rajasthan far from the homogenised luxury circuit. It’s charismatic, storied and deeply rooted in place, a time capsule of splendour and quiet eccentricity.

The interiors of this imposing palace are a joyful jumble of stained glass, mirrored mosaics and hand-painted frescoes. Each of the 50 rooms and suites is entirely individual, some are bedecked in jewel-toned silks, others in heritage antiques and faded Mughal florals. The Sheesh Mahal suites, with their mirrored walls and coloured glass, create a kaleidoscope of dancing light that feels plucked from a royal romance. While some of the bathrooms and furnishings reflect the quirks of an ageing palace, there is great charm in the honest patina of time.

This is still the home of the noble Chundawat family, whose passion for hospitality and local heritage is palpable, so the service is warm and familial. Guests are often treated to an informal tour of the family’s prized collection of miniature paintings, or invited to linger over drinks in the breezy courtyards with a royal family member regaling tales of Mewar.

There’s a large outdoor pool, Ayurvedic massage centre, Jacuzzi and a restaurant serving comforting Indian and continental fare (we recommend the traditional Rajasthani thali). There’s no gym and limited Wi-Fi, and for many, that is part of the joy. It’s a place that invites you to unplug, to slow down and to listen to the quiet pulse of rural life beyond the palace walls.

That said, guests looking for five-star polish or modern amenities may need to temper expectations. The beauty here lies in the atmosphere, not the automation. Some rooms show their age, and the hot water can be temperamental. But the experience is immersive, textured and wildly memorable.

Beyond the walls, the Deogarh estate stretches into a quilt of lakes, farmlands and village tracks. Days can be spent birdwatching, enjoying jeep safaris or scenic picnics, or simply taking a sunset train ride through the hills on a local narrow-gauge line. And for those craving solitude, Seengh Sagar, the property’s private, four-suite hideaway just 15 minutes away, offers even more intimacy and exclusivity. Set amidst the rural hush, it’s a miniature fortress in its own right, the sort of place you disappear to with a good book and a better bottle.

Deogarh Mahal isn’t for everyone; it’s for the romantics, the aesthetes, the travellers who want to feel something real. To walk in the footsteps of royalty, to wake to birdsong echoing off the ramparts and to leave, reluctantly, with Rajasthan in your bones.

I dislike feeling at home when I am abroad.
George Bernard Shaw