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Flame of the Forest Safari Lodge
Kanha National Park

Flame of the Forest Safari Lodge is the kind of place you dream about when you think of escaping to India’s wild heart - soulful, small-scale and stunningly situated on the banks of the Banjaar River at the edge of Kanha National Park. With only four elegant cottages, this lodge is less a hotel and more a warm, immersive invitation into the forest itself, a retreat that feels deeply personal, grounded and totally un-showy in its luxury. Luxury, after all, is all in the experience. 

The cottages are open-plan, earthy and tactile, and built with mud, timber and thatch. The open verandahs are strung with daybeds and lanterns, where you can while away the afternoon watching birds skim across the river or a sambhar deer slip quietly through the undergrowth. There are outdoor showers, copper basins and soft beds draped in white muslin; simplicity elevated by care and craft. Nothing here is flashy and everything is intentional.

The lodge is the vision of Karan and Isabelle, who built it from the ground up in 2008 using local artisans and sustainable techniques. Their ethos is one of gentle immersion, guests are invited to reconnect with nature and community.

Days start early, with morning safaris into Kanha, a land of sal forests, vast meadows and tiger trails, where naturalists know the park like the back of their hand. Safaris are led by Karan himself (a former Taj naturalist) whose passion for the park’s tigers, leopards and barasingha is infectious. Between game drives, you might join a yoga session in the riverside shala, cycle to a nearby Gond village or simply lounge on your daybed, lulled by the rhythm of the jungle.

Come evening, you return to stories shared around the fire-pit, or quiet, candlelit dinners beneath a sky dense with stars. The food is home-cooked, seasonal and soul-warming (think lentil soups, wild greens and fragrant curries), sourced from their organic garden and neighbouring farms. The lodge’s commitment to community is not performative, it is lived. Through the social enterprise, Hathi, Isabelle has created employment and education opportunities for local women, empowering them with skills. 

Flame of the Forest is not for those seeking five-star flash. It is for the traveller who values authenticity over artifice and intimacy over indulgence. It’s no wonder Condé Nast Traveller described Flame of the Forest as a “wildlife fairytale”, this is one of India’s most beautifully considered and low-impact jungle lodges, where you are a participant in something meaningful. It’s a place to exhale and reconnect, and feel the world slow down to the rustle of leaves and the call of a koel.

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The first condition of understanding a foreign country is to smell it.
Rudyard Kipling

Client Testimonials

Ballyfin was great - we loved it! Best things were the amount of space, it felt like you had the whole place to yourself, the history of the house, and the staff. We'd definitely recommend it. Thanks very much for all the help getting it booked!
- Mr Wyburd, Ireland
Difficult to choose the highlight of the trip, can’t choose between… 1) Taj Mahal & Oberoi Amarvilas. 2) Ranthambore. 3) Lake Palace. We have to say a particular thank you for selecting Parmod as our driver. He is a delightful and kind man who took our holiday and our enjoyment as his responsibility. Thank you for putting together such an amazing trip for us. The balance of city and rural destinations was perfect for us and the variety of rooms and hotel types brilliant. Our driver and guides also added so much to the trip with their knowledge of India’s history and culture and their willingness to discuss it both from a professional and personal angle.
- Carruthers family, North India
Ampersand provided a bespoke and flexible holiday, tailored to my every whim. Their highly professional staff had only one goal which was to arrange an exceptional holiday and some unforgettable experiences in India. I have no hesitation in fully recommending them and they will be the first company I approach in the future - 10/10
- Anonymous, India
I thought the Ampersand team was outstanding. We couldn’t have hoped for anything more.
- Mr Geoffrey Johnson, India
We had a wonderful holiday - everything was perfect. Thank you for helping us to make a thoughtful plan to enjoy and make most out of our trip. The places we visited, the guides, the transportation and driver, the hotels selected... Everything was great!
- Jaime Benitez, South India
I had a very lovely time and was looked after splendidly. My first visit to India could not have been better, save for being longer! But I shall return at some point and I shall look to you to make the arrangements.
- Matthew Nicklin, North India
Everything you did for us whilst we were away was hugely appreciated, and Ampersand has been exemplary in every way. I'll always recommend you!
- Mr Richard Stoughton, Sri Lanka
Getting to Amanpulo from Manila was very simple and the beach was the most beautiful I’d ever been on; pristine white sand, not a single piece of rubbish in sight. You get your own solar powered golf buggy to drive around resort (and a butler at request). The views from the Hillside Casita were spectacular!
- Mr Wyburd, Philippines
Ampersand’s preparation, attention to detail and interaction before and during our trip show exactly why good travel agents have a role in today’s internet booking age. They were a delight to deal with!
- Mr David Wallace, North India
I barely know where to begin... though a sincere 'thank you' would be the best. You have organised this trip perfectly. May was an inspiring and delightful companion in Myanmar – thoroughly professional and friendly at the same time. My accommodation throughout has been superb, especially The Governor's Residence and The Mandarin Oriental. The view from the cottage at Inle Lake was beautiful and I loved every moment of being there. And here I am now on the last leg of this extended holiday at my favourite place. I could stay here for ever, the peace, silence and surroundings all amazing, plus the people and the whole aura of Vana. Thank you for much, and I look forward to speaking to you on my return.
- Ms Margulies, Burma, India & Thailand
We have just returned back from a wonderful trip. Thank you very much for organising everything. The transfer was excellent – for once they had perfect car seats. The villa was lovely, just what we needed and the hotel had helpfully put us as far away as possible from everyone else. The breakfast buffet was the best I have ever seen – and I am slightly obsessive over breakfast!! There was an incredible choice, something for everyone and so beautifully presented. A real highlight of the trip. Thank you again for sorting everything - and at such short notice!
- Redmayne family, Phuket
We really enjoyed the trip and were happy that we squeezed so much into a few short days. The Burmese people were lovely and the sites were fantastic. We really enjoyed the balloon ride and would highly suggest it to others in the future. The trip went super smoothly and a good time plus learning happened for all. Yangon was nice as the Strand was quite amazing and we of course loved the giant gold temple. Many thanks for all of your help and look forward to future travel with you.
- Wallace Family, Burma
So many highlights to choose from! The hotels were amazing but Maya Villa was a highlight… I loved just hanging out in the hammock reading my book and watching the peacocks chase the cows!
- Krista Weir, Sri Lanka
I would recommend Ampersand without any hesitation!!! The best travel agent that I’ve ever had. Everything – from the individual care and attention in planning the trip, through to the efficiency of the agents on the ground in India – was handled brilliantly. An absolutely first-class service all round!
- Matthew Annable, Rajasthan, India
Difficult to articulate just how good the service from you and your team really was. We know you will continue to do well and hope we have the chance to seek your assistance again before long.
- Mr & Mrs Manson, North India
Without question, you put together the best trip I have ever taken. We were shown around like visiting dignitaries, the hotels were fantastic and the itinerary was just right. Everybody I know will hear about how amazing Ampersand is!
- Leslie Siben, India

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