Samode Haveli
Jaipur

Tucked within the ancient city walls of Jaipur’s fabled Pink City, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that pulses with colour, chaos and charm, Samode Haveli offers a moment of serenity in the thick of it all. Built in the mid-19th century as the private townhouse of the influential Rawals of Samode, noble vassals who once held the post of Prime Minister in the royal court of Jaipur, the property has been lovingly preserved and restored by the same family, now transformed into one of India’s most atmospheric boutique hotels.

This is not a palace in the grand, gilded sense, it is a haveli, intimate and deeply personal, full of nooks and courtyards and character, where jasmine-scented breezes waft past scalloped archways, and echoes of a bygone era linger in every hand-painted wall and weathered pillar.

The haveli is centred around two lush courtyards, where lime and pomegranate trees bloom and chipmunks dart through the bougainvillaea. From here, narrow corridors and stone staircases weave through the building, revealing 39 individually decorated rooms and suites, each with its own unique personality.

No two rooms are quite alike, though all draw from the visual vocabulary of Rajputana elegance with original frescoes, vintage photographs of maharajas on big game hunts and racing cheetahs, hand-carved four-poster beds, jharokha balconies, antique chandeliers and softly faded textiles. Many rooms still bear the original 19th-century décor, while the suites offer expansive layouts, marble bathrooms and private sitting areas. It’s a little like living in a museum.

For all its seclusion, Samode Haveli lies right in the centre of Jaipur’s historic quarter, a ten-minute walk from architectural icons like the City Palace, Jantar Mantar and the breezy pink façade of the Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds). Step out of the gates and you’re immediately enveloped in the bustle of local life, street vendors, vibrant saris, temple bells and the sweet aroma of masala chai.

After a day amid the sensory theatre of Jaipur, retreat to the haveli’s private world, where a serene courtyard pool, flanked by daybeds and frangipani trees, awaits your return. There’s also a spa, a fitness centre and a leafy garden, a true rarity in the dense weave of the old city. Crucially, Samode Haveli does not accept large tour groups, ensuring that the experience remains peaceful, personal and never overrun.

Meals are served in the historic dining room, with its high ceilings, regal murals and candlelit tables, or al fresco in the palm-dotted courtyard. The menu features an elegant fusion of traditional Rajasthani cuisine and international favourites, slow-cooked laal maas, delicate ker sangri, creamy kormas alongside light Mediterranean salads and continental comfort dishes. The wine list is impressive and the kitchen is known for its attention to detail and home-style flavours. This is a place where even non-residents make bookings simply to enjoy the dining experience in such a storied setting.

Samode Haveli is Jaipur at its most poetic; faded grandeur, lived-in beauty and just enough eccentricity to make it unforgettable.

Travelling is like flirting with life. It's like saying, 'I would stay and love you, but I have to go; this is my station.
Lisa St. Aubin de Teran