Samode Haveli
Jaipur

Tucked away in the centre of the bustling Pink City of Jaipur, this atmospheric heritage hotel was built for a prime minister of the royal court in the mid-19th century.

Samode Haveli is arranged around two courtyards which act as the focal points of the hotel, effervescing the scent of pomegranate and lime trees with a maze of narrow, and at times, steep staircases and corridors which lead to 39 charming rooms and suites decorated in a historical Rajput style. Many of these have retained their original decor with beautiful frescoes, antique furniture and pillars inlaid with marble. Some also have original photographs from the mid 20th century showing cheetahs on racing days, big game hunts and elephants in all their finest regalia. This is a charming secluded bolthole, but still retains the vibrant city vibe.

Ideally located, guests can leave the confines of the hotel and find themselves immediately in the hustle and bustle of Jaipur city life, and just a ten-minute walk away from iconic sights such as the City Palace, Jantar Mantar and Hawa Mahal, the Palace of the Winds. The spa, fitness centre and large swimming pool set in spacious gardens, conveniently offer a perfect respite after a long day sightseeing and unlike many larger hotels, Samode Haveli has also placed a ban on tour groups, helping to ensure guests’ stays are peaceful and undisturbed by those around them. 

For foodies and gastronomic enthusiasts this hotel remains a highlight of Jaipur, drawing non-residents from across the city to eat in its historic dining hall and courtyard. The cuisine on offer is a mixture of traditional Rajasthani fare and international dishes, which are complimented by the hotel’s superb wine collection; service meanwhile is top-notch and rivals that at the larger multinational hotel chains.

There is a lift, but the age and architecture of the building means that it is slightly like a rabbit-warren with many narrow steps and low doorways, so therefore it may not suit those who are not very firm on their feet.

To my mind, the greatest reward and luxury of travel is to be able to experience everyday things as if for the first time, to be in a position in which almost nothing is so familiar it is taken for granted.
Bill Bryson