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Samode Haveli
Jaipur

Tucked within the ancient city walls of Jaipur’s fabled Pink City, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that pulses with colour, chaos and charm, Samode Haveli offers a moment of serenity in the thick of it all. Built in the mid-19th century as the private townhouse of the influential Rawals of Samode, noble vassals who once held the post of Prime Minister in the royal court of Jaipur, the property has been lovingly preserved and restored by the same family, now transformed into one of India’s most atmospheric boutique hotels.

This is not a palace in the grand, gilded sense, it is a haveli, intimate and deeply personal, full of nooks and courtyards and character, where jasmine-scented breezes waft past scalloped archways, and echoes of a bygone era linger in every hand-painted wall and weathered pillar.

The haveli is centred around two lush courtyards, where lime and pomegranate trees bloom and chipmunks dart through the bougainvillaea. From here, narrow corridors and stone staircases weave through the building, revealing 39 individually decorated rooms and suites, each with its own unique personality.

No two rooms are quite alike, though all draw from the visual vocabulary of Rajputana elegance with original frescoes, vintage photographs of maharajas on big game hunts and racing cheetahs, hand-carved four-poster beds, jharokha balconies, antique chandeliers and softly faded textiles. Many rooms still bear the original 19th-century décor, while the suites offer expansive layouts, marble bathrooms and private sitting areas. It’s a little like living in a museum.

For all its seclusion, Samode Haveli lies right in the centre of Jaipur’s historic quarter, a ten-minute walk from architectural icons like the City Palace, Jantar Mantar and the breezy pink façade of the Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds). Step out of the gates and you’re immediately enveloped in the bustle of local life, street vendors, vibrant saris, temple bells and the sweet aroma of masala chai.

After a day amid the sensory theatre of Jaipur, retreat to the haveli’s private world, where a serene courtyard pool, flanked by daybeds and frangipani trees, awaits your return. There’s also a spa, a fitness centre and a leafy garden, a true rarity in the dense weave of the old city. Crucially, Samode Haveli does not accept large tour groups, ensuring that the experience remains peaceful, personal and never overrun.

Meals are served in the historic dining room, with its high ceilings, regal murals and candlelit tables, or al fresco in the palm-dotted courtyard. The menu features an elegant fusion of traditional Rajasthani cuisine and international favourites, slow-cooked laal maas, delicate ker sangri, creamy kormas alongside light Mediterranean salads and continental comfort dishes. The wine list is impressive and the kitchen is known for its attention to detail and home-style flavours. This is a place where even non-residents make bookings simply to enjoy the dining experience in such a storied setting.

Samode Haveli is Jaipur at its most poetic; faded grandeur, lived-in beauty and just enough eccentricity to make it unforgettable.

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Travelling is like flirting with life. It's like saying, 'I would stay and love you, but I have to go; this is my station.
Lisa St. Aubin de Teran

Client Testimonials

Ballyfin was great - we loved it! Best things were the amount of space, it felt like you had the whole place to yourself, the history of the house, and the staff. We'd definitely recommend it. Thanks very much for all the help getting it booked!
- Mr Wyburd, Ireland
I barely know where to begin... though a sincere 'thank you' would be the best. You have organised this trip perfectly. May was an inspiring and delightful companion in Myanmar – thoroughly professional and friendly at the same time. My accommodation throughout has been superb, especially The Governor's Residence and The Mandarin Oriental. The view from the cottage at Inle Lake was beautiful and I loved every moment of being there. And here I am now on the last leg of this extended holiday at my favourite place. I could stay here for ever, the peace, silence and surroundings all amazing, plus the people and the whole aura of Vana. Thank you for much, and I look forward to speaking to you on my return.
- Ms Margulies, Burma, India & Thailand
I had a very lovely time and was looked after splendidly. My first visit to India could not have been better, save for being longer! But I shall return at some point and I shall look to you to make the arrangements.
- Matthew Nicklin, North India
Ampersand provided a bespoke and flexible holiday, tailored to my every whim. Their highly professional staff had only one goal which was to arrange an exceptional holiday and some unforgettable experiences in India. I have no hesitation in fully recommending them and they will be the first company I approach in the future - 10/10
- Anonymous, India
Without question, you put together the best trip I have ever taken. We were shown around like visiting dignitaries, the hotels were fantastic and the itinerary was just right. Everybody I know will hear about how amazing Ampersand is!
- Leslie Siben, India
Ampersand’s preparation, attention to detail and interaction before and during our trip show exactly why good travel agents have a role in today’s internet booking age. They were a delight to deal with!
- Mr David Wallace, North India
We really enjoyed the trip and were happy that we squeezed so much into a few short days. The Burmese people were lovely and the sites were fantastic. We really enjoyed the balloon ride and would highly suggest it to others in the future. The trip went super smoothly and a good time plus learning happened for all. Yangon was nice as the Strand was quite amazing and we of course loved the giant gold temple. Many thanks for all of your help and look forward to future travel with you.
- Wallace Family, Burma
Everything you did for us whilst we were away was hugely appreciated, and Ampersand has been exemplary in every way. I'll always recommend you!
- Mr Richard Stoughton, Sri Lanka
Difficult to articulate just how good the service from you and your team really was. We know you will continue to do well and hope we have the chance to seek your assistance again before long.
- Mr & Mrs Manson, North India
We have just returned back from a wonderful trip. Thank you very much for organising everything. The transfer was excellent – for once they had perfect car seats. The villa was lovely, just what we needed and the hotel had helpfully put us as far away as possible from everyone else. The breakfast buffet was the best I have ever seen – and I am slightly obsessive over breakfast!! There was an incredible choice, something for everyone and so beautifully presented. A real highlight of the trip. Thank you again for sorting everything - and at such short notice!
- Redmayne family, Phuket
I thought the Ampersand team was outstanding. We couldn’t have hoped for anything more.
- Mr Geoffrey Johnson, India
So many highlights to choose from! The hotels were amazing but Maya Villa was a highlight… I loved just hanging out in the hammock reading my book and watching the peacocks chase the cows!
- Krista Weir, Sri Lanka
Difficult to choose the highlight of the trip, can’t choose between… 1) Taj Mahal & Oberoi Amarvilas. 2) Ranthambore. 3) Lake Palace. We have to say a particular thank you for selecting Parmod as our driver. He is a delightful and kind man who took our holiday and our enjoyment as his responsibility. Thank you for putting together such an amazing trip for us. The balance of city and rural destinations was perfect for us and the variety of rooms and hotel types brilliant. Our driver and guides also added so much to the trip with their knowledge of India’s history and culture and their willingness to discuss it both from a professional and personal angle.
- Carruthers family, North India
Getting to Amanpulo from Manila was very simple and the beach was the most beautiful I’d ever been on; pristine white sand, not a single piece of rubbish in sight. You get your own solar powered golf buggy to drive around resort (and a butler at request). The views from the Hillside Casita were spectacular!
- Mr Wyburd, Philippines
We had a wonderful holiday - everything was perfect. Thank you for helping us to make a thoughtful plan to enjoy and make most out of our trip. The places we visited, the guides, the transportation and driver, the hotels selected... Everything was great!
- Jaime Benitez, South India
I would recommend Ampersand without any hesitation!!! The best travel agent that I’ve ever had. Everything – from the individual care and attention in planning the trip, through to the efficiency of the agents on the ground in India – was handled brilliantly. An absolutely first-class service all round!
- Matthew Annable, Rajasthan, India

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