Sarai at Toria
Khajuraho
Spread across nine acres of unspoiled land in the historic region of Bundelkhand, nestled along the banks of the Ken River, Sarai at Toria is a hidden gem that offers a deeply enriching way to experience Panna Tiger Reserve and its surroundings. Blending sustainable design with heartfelt hospitality, this eco-lodge is a place to connect with nature, wildlife and the timeless rhythms of rural India.
Located in Madhya Pradesh, just a short drive from the famed temples of Khajuraho, Sarai at Toria offers a perfect balance of wilderness and culture. The lodge is owned and run by Joanna Van Gruisen, a writer, filmmaker and acclaimed wildlife photographer, and Dr. Raghu Chundawat, one of India’s leading tiger conservationists. Their vision and values shape every aspect of the experience, from the lodge’s architecture to the way guests engage with the land.
The property features eight thoughtfully designed cottages, each built using traditional methods and local materials. The cottages are comfortable and spacious, with large verandas that open out onto a lush garden teeming with native plants and birds. Their earthy elegance reflects the lodge’s ethos of blending into the environment, rather than imposing upon it.
At the heart of the property is a large, open-plan dining and lounge pavilion, perched at the highest point of the site. From here, guests enjoy sweeping views over the Ken River and the forest beyond, an ever-changing canvas of light and wildlife; it’s not uncommon to spot otters, crocodiles or even a passing tiger from this very spot.
Mornings at Sarai at Toria begin with the promise of adventure. Guests can set out on jeep safaris into Panna Tiger Reserve, one of India’s most successful tiger conservation stories. The park, once depleted of its big cats, is now home to a growing population of tigers, leopards, sloth bears and more. Led by expert naturalists, these safaris offer the chance to witness India’s incredible biodiversity up close.
For those looking for a gentler pace, early morning boat rides on the Ken River are a serene alternative. Gliding silently through the water, guests often spot kingfishers, storks, eagle owls and the occasional mugger crocodile. The river is not just a lifeline for wildlife but a tranquil corridor that reveals the quieter side of the jungle.
The food at Sarai is homemade, nourishing and locally sourced whenever possible. A mix of Indian and international dishes are served communally in the dining area or al fresco under the trees. These shared meals often turn into lively conversations, as guests from around the world swap stories from their time in the wild.
Beyond the safaris and boat rides, guests can also explore local villages, visit Khajuraho’s intricate stone temples, or simply unwind in a hammock with a book. The staff, many of whom come from nearby communities, offer warm, genuine hospitality.
Sarai at Toria is closed during the monsoon season (typically July to September) to give the land and wildlife a much-needed rest. This seasonal rhythm underscores the lodge’s philosophy that true luxury lies not in extravagance, but in harmony with nature.
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I can't think of anything that excites a greater sense of childlike wonder than to be in a country where you are ignorant of almost everything.
Bill Bryson