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Jaisalmer

There is something magical and ethereal about the 12th century fortress town of Jaisalmer; the massive and ancient battlements rear out of the barren and sandy plains of the picturesque Thar Desert, like a mirage from the age-old Middle Eastern folk tales, One Thousand and One Nights. It’s hard not to be enchanted by this desert citadel.

Once a guard to western Rajasthan and a staging post on trading routes, Jaisalmer’s most prominent landmark is the Jaisalmer Fort, also called Sonar Qila or Golden Fort. The thickly walled and formidably fortified citadel has ninety-nine bastions encircling the fort’s labyrinthine twisting lanes. Unlike most other forts in India, Jaisalmer’s still inhabited fort houses a meandering maze of streets full of shops swaddled in bright embroideries, wonderful golden havelis where generations continue to live, and numerous fine Jain temples. The enriching Jain community has adorned the city with several beautiful temples which are situated within the fort. Mostly built during 12th and 15th centuries the temples are known for their exquisite architecture and intricate engravings, that was predominant during the medieval era.

A walking tour gives an excellent insight into a way of life seemingly little changed for centuries. Listen to the hollers of vendors echo through the fort's atmospheric alleyways, with swathes of vibrantly coloured Rajasthani wall hangings for sale, and bullocks ambling along the streets, or walk around the ancient walls to look out over the shimmering expanse of desert, appreciating the sheer isolation of the location. Beneath the ramparts and the forest of intricately carved spires and turrets, is the old city, a merry jumble of palaces and alleys, animals and humans, shops and cafes. The ancient city is finely sculpted from the golden-honey sandstone that lights up in the rising and setting sun, hence Jaisalmer’s designation as the Golden City.

The silky Sam Sand Dunes, around 40 kilometres west of Jaisalmer, make for a wonderful excursion away from the charismatic buzz of the city. The band of dunes is about two kilometres long, and is undeniably one of the most picturesque in the region. We highly recommend sundowners in the nearby dunes followed a by a camel ride under the desert stars for an impossibly romantic experience. There is no place which better evokes the exotic camel-train trade routes and desert mystery.

In the past half-century Jaisalmer has come back well and truly onto the tourist map; it may be remote, but it’s certainly not forgotten, and today it is considered to be one of Rajasthan’s biggest tourist destinations.

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I dislike feeling at home when I am abroad.
George Bernard Shaw

Client Testimonials

We really enjoyed the trip and were happy that we squeezed so much into a few short days. The Burmese people were lovely and the sites were fantastic. We really enjoyed the balloon ride and would highly suggest it to others in the future. The trip went super smoothly and a good time plus learning happened for all. Yangon was nice as the Strand was quite amazing and we of course loved the giant gold temple. Many thanks for all of your help and look forward to future travel with you.
- Wallace Family, Burma
So many highlights to choose from! The hotels were amazing but Maya Villa was a highlight… I loved just hanging out in the hammock reading my book and watching the peacocks chase the cows!
- Krista Weir, Sri Lanka
Ampersand’s preparation, attention to detail and interaction before and during our trip show exactly why good travel agents have a role in today’s internet booking age. They were a delight to deal with!
- Mr David Wallace, North India
We have just returned back from a wonderful trip. Thank you very much for organising everything. The transfer was excellent – for once they had perfect car seats. The villa was lovely, just what we needed and the hotel had helpfully put us as far away as possible from everyone else. The breakfast buffet was the best I have ever seen – and I am slightly obsessive over breakfast!! There was an incredible choice, something for everyone and so beautifully presented. A real highlight of the trip. Thank you again for sorting everything - and at such short notice!
- Redmayne family, Phuket
I would recommend Ampersand without any hesitation!!! The best travel agent that I’ve ever had. Everything – from the individual care and attention in planning the trip, through to the efficiency of the agents on the ground in India – was handled brilliantly. An absolutely first-class service all round!
- Matthew Annable, Rajasthan, India
Getting to Amanpulo from Manila was very simple and the beach was the most beautiful I’d ever been on; pristine white sand, not a single piece of rubbish in sight. You get your own solar powered golf buggy to drive around resort (and a butler at request). The views from the Hillside Casita were spectacular!
- Mr Wyburd, Philippines
Ampersand provided a bespoke and flexible holiday, tailored to my every whim. Their highly professional staff had only one goal which was to arrange an exceptional holiday and some unforgettable experiences in India. I have no hesitation in fully recommending them and they will be the first company I approach in the future - 10/10
- Anonymous, India
We had a wonderful holiday - everything was perfect. Thank you for helping us to make a thoughtful plan to enjoy and make most out of our trip. The places we visited, the guides, the transportation and driver, the hotels selected... Everything was great!
- Jaime Benitez, South India
Difficult to choose the highlight of the trip, can’t choose between… 1) Taj Mahal & Oberoi Amarvilas. 2) Ranthambore. 3) Lake Palace. We have to say a particular thank you for selecting Parmod as our driver. He is a delightful and kind man who took our holiday and our enjoyment as his responsibility. Thank you for putting together such an amazing trip for us. The balance of city and rural destinations was perfect for us and the variety of rooms and hotel types brilliant. Our driver and guides also added so much to the trip with their knowledge of India’s history and culture and their willingness to discuss it both from a professional and personal angle.
- Carruthers family, North India
I thought the Ampersand team was outstanding. We couldn’t have hoped for anything more.
- Mr Geoffrey Johnson, India
I barely know where to begin... though a sincere 'thank you' would be the best. You have organised this trip perfectly. May was an inspiring and delightful companion in Myanmar – thoroughly professional and friendly at the same time. My accommodation throughout has been superb, especially The Governor's Residence and The Mandarin Oriental. The view from the cottage at Inle Lake was beautiful and I loved every moment of being there. And here I am now on the last leg of this extended holiday at my favourite place. I could stay here for ever, the peace, silence and surroundings all amazing, plus the people and the whole aura of Vana. Thank you for much, and I look forward to speaking to you on my return.
- Ms Margulies, Burma, India & Thailand
Ballyfin was great - we loved it! Best things were the amount of space, it felt like you had the whole place to yourself, the history of the house, and the staff. We'd definitely recommend it. Thanks very much for all the help getting it booked!
- Mr Wyburd, Ireland
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- Mr Richard Stoughton, Sri Lanka
Without question, you put together the best trip I have ever taken. We were shown around like visiting dignitaries, the hotels were fantastic and the itinerary was just right. Everybody I know will hear about how amazing Ampersand is!
- Leslie Siben, India
Difficult to articulate just how good the service from you and your team really was. We know you will continue to do well and hope we have the chance to seek your assistance again before long.
- Mr & Mrs Manson, North India
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- Matthew Nicklin, North India

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