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Varanasi

Varanasi is probably the place in India that has the most profound impact on visitors. Formerly known as Benares, it sits on a bend of the Ganges, and its spiritual significance comes from its status as a "crossing place", where gods and goddesses can descend to earth. It has been a pilgrimage site since the sixth century BC; Hindus try to visit at least once in their lifetime and immediately make for the river to pray and bathe. The Ghats - hundreds of stone steps flanking the riverbank - are an incredible sight, particularly at sunrise when thousands of pilgrim's bathe in the spiritually cleansing waters. On the riverbank at dusk, smoke from funeral pyres merges with sweet-smelling incense - while pilgrims, sadhu's (holy men) and Hindu priests attend the evening prayer ceremony, or Puja, to a feverish soundtrack of drumming, chanting and crashing symbols before releasing candle offerings into the swirling Ganges.

The riverbanks of Varanasi are lined with remarkably colourful temples, best viewed from aboard a boat on the great Ganges. The 19th century Durga Temple stands out for its striking ochre hue, which is reflected in the shimmering waters of the river, and the lively monkey inhabitants that populate this ornate temple.  On the opposite side to the stone Ghats is the lofty and impressive eighteenth-century Ramnagar Fort, home of the maharaja, whose fortifications glow golden in the afternoon sun.

The Old City, which stretches back from the Ganges into a maze of tiny alleys, has several temples, including one of the holiest temples in India: the Golden Temple. This temple is dedicated to Shiva and only admits Hindus and of course the sacred cow, although non-Hindus can admire the glinting gold-plated spire from outside.  You'll find narrow lanes of food sellers, market stalls and wandering animals, as well as numerous mosques including the sixteenth-century Razia's Mosque and the white-domed Jani Vapi. Varanasi is also the place where all saris are made in India, so make sure to visit one the weavers to see their intricate handiwork.

Outside the old city are fascinating museums and places of interest to contrast with the often frenetic pace of the Varanasi’s Ghats and Old City. The Bharat Kala Bhawan Museum houses an incredible collection of miniature paintings, sculptures and twelfth-century manuscripts. There's a gallery focusing on the history of Varanasi including ancient maps of the city and excavated items from the Ghats. Mother India's temple, or Bharat Mata temple, which was inaugurated by Mahatma Ghandi in 1936, is worth a visit for its unusual relief map of India carved from marble depicting the plateaus and riverbeds of this diverse country. Ten kilometres north of Varanasi, and easily accessible by rickshaw, is Sarnath, a Buddhist pilgrimage centre, where Buddha preached his first sermon. Sarnath is a spiritual place of mainly ruined stupas, shrines and temples, which makes a serene day trip from Varanasi.

>> Read our blog: Varanasi, the holiest of holy cities...

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Difficult to choose the highlight of the trip, can’t choose between… 1) Taj Mahal & Oberoi Amarvilas. 2) Ranthambore. 3) Lake Palace. We have to say a particular thank you for selecting Parmod as our driver. He is a delightful and kind man who took our holiday and our enjoyment as his responsibility. Thank you for putting together such an amazing trip for us. The balance of city and rural destinations was perfect for us and the variety of rooms and hotel types brilliant. Our driver and guides also added so much to the trip with their knowledge of India’s history and culture and their willingness to discuss it both from a professional and personal angle.
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We really enjoyed the trip and were happy that we squeezed so much into a few short days. The Burmese people were lovely and the sites were fantastic. We really enjoyed the balloon ride and would highly suggest it to others in the future. The trip went super smoothly and a good time plus learning happened for all. Yangon was nice as the Strand was quite amazing and we of course loved the giant gold temple. Many thanks for all of your help and look forward to future travel with you.
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We had a wonderful holiday - everything was perfect. Thank you for helping us to make a thoughtful plan to enjoy and make most out of our trip. The places we visited, the guides, the transportation and driver, the hotels selected... Everything was great!
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Difficult to articulate just how good the service from you and your team really was. We know you will continue to do well and hope we have the chance to seek your assistance again before long.
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Without question, you put together the best trip I have ever taken. We were shown around like visiting dignitaries, the hotels were fantastic and the itinerary was just right. Everybody I know will hear about how amazing Ampersand is!
- Leslie Siben, India
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I had a very lovely time and was looked after splendidly. My first visit to India could not have been better, save for being longer! But I shall return at some point and I shall look to you to make the arrangements.
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I barely know where to begin... though a sincere 'thank you' would be the best. You have organised this trip perfectly. May was an inspiring and delightful companion in Myanmar – thoroughly professional and friendly at the same time. My accommodation throughout has been superb, especially The Governor's Residence and The Mandarin Oriental. The view from the cottage at Inle Lake was beautiful and I loved every moment of being there. And here I am now on the last leg of this extended holiday at my favourite place. I could stay here for ever, the peace, silence and surroundings all amazing, plus the people and the whole aura of Vana. Thank you for much, and I look forward to speaking to you on my return.
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