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Ahilya Fort
Maheshwar

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Ahilya Fort is one of Ampersand's Top 10 Romantic Retreats 

The incomparable Ahilya Fort is quite possibly one of the most romantic hideaways in all of India, and a firm Ampersand favourite. Perched high above the sacred River Narmada in the sleepy town of Maheshwar, this 18th-century fortress is not just a hotel, but an experience; intimate, soulful and utterly enchanting. While the setting may be regal, the atmosphere is more that of a well-loved home than a grand palace. The fort belongs to Richard Holkar, son of the last Maharaja of Indore, whose passion and vision have brought Ahilya to life with rare sensitivity. He has restored the fort with a lightness of touch; pale stone floors, shuttered doors, carved arches and quirky bathrooms that speak to a thoughtful fusion of elegance and eccentricity. Regional crafts and traditions are woven throughout, from handloom textiles to antique ceramics, giving the interiors a layered, lived-in feel.

Arriving into Maheshwar, you wind slowly through quiet lanes and up the hill to the fort, a journey that feels like slipping backwards in time. Beyond a discreet wooden door, through a shaded courtyard guarded by a stone Nandi bull, the fort reveals itself gradually and with quiet grandeur. From the ramparts and gardens, the views over the Narmada are magnificent. At dawn, a silver mist veils the water, at dusk, the ghats and shrines below are burnished copper in the setting sun. All day, the gentle rhythm of temple bells and chanting floats up on the breeze from the 200-year-old shrine nearby, anchoring you to the spiritual pulse of this deeply sacred town.

Dining at Ahilya is nothing short of magical. Meals are never in the same place twice; one night you might find yourself at a candlelit table by the jungle-fringed pool, the next tucked into a turret under the stars, or sharing stories and local dishes on the breezy terrace above the river. The menus change daily and are inspired by what’s fresh and local (almost everything is grown in the fort’s own organic gardens or sourced from nearby farms). It feels personal, generous and thoroughly unpretentious.

For those winding down at the end of a longer journey through India, Ahilya Fort is a perfect final chapter, a place to exhale. Linger by the pool with a book, take a boat ride down the river at sunset or sip a G&T from the balcony as the skies blaze orange and pink. And for the more intrepid, the hotel can arrange all manner of low-key adventures; excursions to the haunting ruins of Mandu, visits to sacred temples and nearby forts or an afternoon watching local artisans weaving the famous Maheshwari saris or carving lingas in the riverside workshops.

This is a place that stays with you, a hotel that hums with history and heart. It’s for romantics and readers, seekers and dreamers, travellers in search of something quietly extraordinary.

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For something a little different and away from the masses, Ahilya Fort is perfect - it is completely non-commercial and truly captures the “essence of India”. Spend a few nights at Ahilya Fort including one night on a boat sailing on the stunning Narmada river.
James Jayasundera, MD of Ampersand Travel

Client Testimonials

I barely know where to begin... though a sincere 'thank you' would be the best. You have organised this trip perfectly. May was an inspiring and delightful companion in Myanmar – thoroughly professional and friendly at the same time. My accommodation throughout has been superb, especially The Governor's Residence and The Mandarin Oriental. The view from the cottage at Inle Lake was beautiful and I loved every moment of being there. And here I am now on the last leg of this extended holiday at my favourite place. I could stay here for ever, the peace, silence and surroundings all amazing, plus the people and the whole aura of Vana. Thank you for much, and I look forward to speaking to you on my return.
- Ms Margulies, Burma, India & Thailand
Getting to Amanpulo from Manila was very simple and the beach was the most beautiful I’d ever been on; pristine white sand, not a single piece of rubbish in sight. You get your own solar powered golf buggy to drive around resort (and a butler at request). The views from the Hillside Casita were spectacular!
- Mr Wyburd, Philippines
I thought the Ampersand team was outstanding. We couldn’t have hoped for anything more.
- Mr Geoffrey Johnson, India
Without question, you put together the best trip I have ever taken. We were shown around like visiting dignitaries, the hotels were fantastic and the itinerary was just right. Everybody I know will hear about how amazing Ampersand is!
- Leslie Siben, India
Ampersand’s preparation, attention to detail and interaction before and during our trip show exactly why good travel agents have a role in today’s internet booking age. They were a delight to deal with!
- Mr David Wallace, North India
Ballyfin was great - we loved it! Best things were the amount of space, it felt like you had the whole place to yourself, the history of the house, and the staff. We'd definitely recommend it. Thanks very much for all the help getting it booked!
- Mr Wyburd, Ireland
We had a wonderful holiday - everything was perfect. Thank you for helping us to make a thoughtful plan to enjoy and make most out of our trip. The places we visited, the guides, the transportation and driver, the hotels selected... Everything was great!
- Jaime Benitez, South India
We have just returned back from a wonderful trip. Thank you very much for organising everything. The transfer was excellent – for once they had perfect car seats. The villa was lovely, just what we needed and the hotel had helpfully put us as far away as possible from everyone else. The breakfast buffet was the best I have ever seen – and I am slightly obsessive over breakfast!! There was an incredible choice, something for everyone and so beautifully presented. A real highlight of the trip. Thank you again for sorting everything - and at such short notice!
- Redmayne family, Phuket
I would recommend Ampersand without any hesitation!!! The best travel agent that I’ve ever had. Everything – from the individual care and attention in planning the trip, through to the efficiency of the agents on the ground in India – was handled brilliantly. An absolutely first-class service all round!
- Matthew Annable, Rajasthan, India
So many highlights to choose from! The hotels were amazing but Maya Villa was a highlight… I loved just hanging out in the hammock reading my book and watching the peacocks chase the cows!
- Krista Weir, Sri Lanka
Ampersand provided a bespoke and flexible holiday, tailored to my every whim. Their highly professional staff had only one goal which was to arrange an exceptional holiday and some unforgettable experiences in India. I have no hesitation in fully recommending them and they will be the first company I approach in the future - 10/10
- Anonymous, India
Difficult to choose the highlight of the trip, can’t choose between… 1) Taj Mahal & Oberoi Amarvilas. 2) Ranthambore. 3) Lake Palace. We have to say a particular thank you for selecting Parmod as our driver. He is a delightful and kind man who took our holiday and our enjoyment as his responsibility. Thank you for putting together such an amazing trip for us. The balance of city and rural destinations was perfect for us and the variety of rooms and hotel types brilliant. Our driver and guides also added so much to the trip with their knowledge of India’s history and culture and their willingness to discuss it both from a professional and personal angle.
- Carruthers family, North India
Everything you did for us whilst we were away was hugely appreciated, and Ampersand has been exemplary in every way. I'll always recommend you!
- Mr Richard Stoughton, Sri Lanka
We really enjoyed the trip and were happy that we squeezed so much into a few short days. The Burmese people were lovely and the sites were fantastic. We really enjoyed the balloon ride and would highly suggest it to others in the future. The trip went super smoothly and a good time plus learning happened for all. Yangon was nice as the Strand was quite amazing and we of course loved the giant gold temple. Many thanks for all of your help and look forward to future travel with you.
- Wallace Family, Burma
Difficult to articulate just how good the service from you and your team really was. We know you will continue to do well and hope we have the chance to seek your assistance again before long.
- Mr & Mrs Manson, North India
I had a very lovely time and was looked after splendidly. My first visit to India could not have been better, save for being longer! But I shall return at some point and I shall look to you to make the arrangements.
- Matthew Nicklin, North India

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