Geisha and junior Maiko put the finishing touches to their kimonos in the Gion area of Kyoto.

The Hoshinoya in Arashiyama outside Kyoto is an exclusive tranquil retreat, reached by boat up the Hozu river.

Kanazawa is a treasure trove of pre-modern teahouses and houses of the nobility where arts such as taiko drumming can be experienced

Traditional Japanese wooden clogs are called 'geta', which are worn for ceremonial occasions but visitors can try them at hot spring spots like Kinosaki Onsen.

Nomura is one of several beautifully preserved nobles' houses in Kanazawa, with a small but perfectly formed ornamental garden.

'O-hanami' cherry blossom festivities carry on late in the evening in Maruyama Park, Kyoto.

Japanese gardens are particularly beautiful when the autumn leaves start turning red to match the ornamental bridges, such as this one at Korakuen Gardens.

The best spot from which to see the bright lights along Osaka's main canal is the jazz boat, with a blindingly good live quintet

From 100 yen plates to chef Jiro's 10-seater restaurant, Japan is still home to the world's best sushi.

Several Japanese towns vie for the title of 'Little Kyoto', but Kanazawa is perhaps the second culturally rich city in Japan with many opportunities to experience traditional arts.

The old trading canal at Kurashiki, with its converted storehouses and distinctive black-tile roofs, is one of the most pleasant places to stroll in Japan.

The iconic snow monkeys of Yudanaka in the Japan Alps hang out at the hot spring pool.

At Tokyo's sprawling Tsukiji Fish Market, the main tuna auction is done by 5 a.m. and adjacent stalls selling are selling the freshest possible sushi straight afterwards.

See all the sights from the warmth of your bathtub at the Aman Tokyo - each guestroom and suite has a large furo and a deep soaking tub.

A masterful dance of filtered light and shade, the Aman Tokyo's atrium lobby is a stylish urban sanctuary to retreat to after the frenetic energy of Tokyo.

The Aman Tokyo's achingly chic and serene 30-metre swimming pool is part of the Aman Spa, which has eight treatment rooms, a state-of-the-art Fitness Centre, a Yoga studio and a Pilates Studio.

This iconic beachside sculpture on Naoshima Island is as eccentric as the artist, Yayoi Kusama. That hasn't stopped it being the inspiration for Louis Vuitton products.

It may not look like much at first glance, but austere Ryoanji rock garden is a fine expression of Zen Buddhism and induces a contemplative state even at busy times.

Ryokan Kurashiki has the charm of a fine English B&B with Japanese refinement and 'omotenashi' hospitality, making it an Ampersand Favourite.

Shinjuku, Tokyo is a labyrinth of late-night izakaya restaurants and shoebox bars that reward the adventurous urban explorer.

Shirakawago in the Japan Alps is particularly beautiful in spring when many indigenous flowers bloom.

Upgrade rooms at the Peninsula Hotel in Tokyo offer some of the best views of the Imperial Palace grounds.

Peter's Bar at the Peninsula Hotel, Tokyo is arguably the hottest place in town for an early evening cocktail and live jazz later in the night.

Visit Yokohama - down the bay from Tokyo - for cocktails at Landmark Tower, Chinatown and some of the best summertime firework displays.

From the city's finest pastries to the beautiful traditional washi paper lampshades, the Ritz Carlton in Kyoto is the epitomy of style and luxury in Japan's most historic city.

Despite stiff competition from newer hotels over the last decade, the Park Hyatt Tokyo's New York Bar is still the place for live jazz in the city.

Ticket windows in Japan can be bewildering but fortunately the pronunciation is relatively manageable. A little sign language also goes a long way!

This iconic beachside sculpture on Naoshima Island is as eccentric as the artist, Yayoi Kusama. That hasn't stopped it being the inspiration for Louis Vuitton products.