Jehan Numa Retreat
Bhopal

Tucked away in the forested fringes of Bhopal, where the city gives way to whispering sal trees and emerald canopy, Jehan Numa Retreat is one of those rare finds, a true spa sanctuary rooted in the rhythms of nature.

The sister property to the much-lauded Reni Pani Jungle Lodge, Jehan Numa carries the same spirit of considered simplicity, refined but unshowy, designed calm and soothe, rather than to impress. The architecture is a subtle nod to traditional forest lodges, with rustic mud-plastered walls and low-slung tiled roof, softened by warm wood tones and clean-lined modern interiors. From the outside, the retreat appears almost as a secluded village, camouflaged within the foliage, until you step inside, where carefully curated furnishings and vast bathrooms reveal a thoughtful layering of comfort and style.

The 28 rooms are spread across six clusters, each a relaxing retreat with its own private veranda and garden-shrouded deck where one can curl up with a book, warm chai in hand, soothed by the gentle hush of birdsong. Wi-Fi is available, though few will feel the need to plug in.

At the heart of the retreat lies a celebration of flavour and provenance. Under the Jamun Tree is a dusky, romantic courtyard restaurant, where lanterns flicker and fragrant curries arrive under a canopy of trees. For more global tastes, The Coriander Leaf offers a polished indoor dining experience, marrying international cuisine with ingredients plucked straight from the hotel’s flourishing kitchen garden.

Wellness here is not an afterthought, it is the essence of the hotel. The spa offers a host of therapies designed to recalibrate mind and body, and there’s a serene 20-metre pool for languid afternoon swims. Beyond the massage table, guests can wander or cycle shaded paths, play croquet under the trees, or take part in tree-planting projects that echo the retreat’s conservation-led ethos.

Despite its tranquil seclusion, Jehan Numa is surprisingly accessible; just 18 km from Bhopal airport and 10 km from the railway station. Yet it feels worlds away, a place where time slows, and the richly cultured layers of India can be felt in every detail.

Recognised as one of the world’s Top 15 Palace Hotels by The Telegraph and three times awarded Best Heritage Hotel, Jehan Numa Retreat offers something more than luxury, it offers soul.

The traveller sees what he sees, the tourist sees what he has come to see.
G. K. Chesterton