Mahua Kothi, A Taj Safai
Bandhavgarh National Park

Mahua Kothi is one of Ampersand's Top 10 Safari Lodges in Asia.

Set on the edge of Bandhavgarh National Park, Mahua Kothi was the first luxury safari lodge of its kind in India. This deeply atmospheric lodge offers a soulful immersion into the central Indian wilderness, wrapped in understated luxury and a deep respect for its surroundings.

Tucked within a 45-acre private forest, Mahua Kothi comprises just 12 charming kutiyas, traditional village-style cottages, each accessed through a shaded private courtyard. The interiors blend rustic charm with comfort; burnt orange and rust-hued textiles, wooden shutters, hand-plastered lime and earth-toned walls, and open rafters made from rough-hewn beams. The details are rooted in local design, with handmade pottery tiles and shaded nooks creating a peaceful ambience. The cottages strike a perfect balance between rustic character and comfort, and the entire property exudes a calm, earthy elegance that mirrors the landscape around it.

Days unfold to the rhythm of the forest. Early mornings begin with expertly guided game drives into Bandhavgarh, one of India’s most iconic tiger reserves. While the park is known for offering some of the country’s best tiger sightings, Mahua Kothi’s exceptional naturalists ensure the experience goes far beyond big cats. Their passion and knowledge of the entire ecosystem, from birdlife and botany to history and habitat, bring the forest alive with meaning.

After a day of exploration, guests return to the lodge for a swim in the pool, a quiet read beneath the trees or sundowners shared around the fire. The food is fresh, generous and served under starlit skies or in beautiful open-air settings. While some guests note they’d like a little more variety in the menu, the overall standard is consistently praised. And what Mahua Kothi may lack in excess, it more than makes up for in intimacy, atmosphere and connection to place.

The staff are central to the lodge’s charm; gracious, intuitive and always one step ahead. There is a warmth here that makes the experience feel personal and deeply restorative.

Do note that Mahua Kothi’s seclusion, while a defining part of its appeal, does mean that getting to and from the lodge can be more of a journey. Mobile reception can be weak or non-existent, which for most is the main appeal. But these are small considerations in the context of what is otherwise an exceptional and unforgettable escape.

For those seeking an authentic and serene safari experience, one that treads lightly on the land, honours local culture and offers immersive, intelligent wildlife encounters, Mahua Kothi is a rare gem. It’s not about excess, but rather about depth, intimacy and a sense of timeless connection to the forest. Come for the tigers, but stay for the quiet magic that lingers long after the last game drive ends.

I dislike feeling at home when I am abroad.
George Bernard Shaw