Windamere Hotel
Darjeeling

High above the clouds on Observatory Hill, cradled by the undulating folds of Sikkim’s mountain landscape, is the Windermere Hotel, where views stretch across verdant valleys to the snow-capped peaks of the Eastern Himalayas.

The Windermere's enduring, slightly eccentric charm resists absolute definition. Established in the 19th century, it is famous for its ambience and tradition. Now under new ownership, the recent renovations make some concessions to modern life but it remains gloriously, deliberately set apart. Throughout the hotel, including the guest rooms, you will find open fires which create a cosy, old-world atmosphere, crackling away against a backdrop of hand-carved wood, heritage fabrics and the soft hush of mountain silence.

Step into the drawing room and you’ll find shelves of well-thumbed books, the scent of polished timber and perhaps an afternoon Darjeeling tea steeping by the hearth. The hotel’s architecture is a nod to its colonial roots, yet its heart is unmistakably Sikkimese, layered in warmth, tradition and a touch of whimsy.

The rooms are varied; some offer grand views of Kanchenjunga at sunrise, others feel cocooned in the pine trees and prayer flags. While the décor speaks of a bygone era with four-poster beds, woollen throws and wooden floors, the recent refurbishments have introduced a level of modern ease with quality linens, thoughtful lighting and Wi-Fi (if you must).

Meals are slow and deliberate affairs here. Locally grown produce makes its way into traditional Sikkimese dishes as well as classic Anglo-Indian and continental offerings. The dining room itself is a subdued theatre of polished silver, candlelight and low conversation. Breakfasts can be taken on the veranda with a pot of tea and that endless Himalayan backdrop.

There’s plenty to do, of course. The concierge can arrange gentle strolls through rhododendron forests, visits to rumbling waterfalls or private tours of monasteries. But equally, this is a place where doing nothing is its own art. A slow afternoon by the fire, a novel in hand and not a single notification pinging, it's blissfully easy here to lose track of time.

What distinguishes the Windermere is by the way it wears age with grace, humour and purpose. The recent renovations are environmentally conscious, with an emphasis on local materials and crafts. Solar water heating, sustainable kitchen practices and community involvement are part of the hotel’s ethos.

Whether you come for a honeymoon, a writers’ retreat or a discreet family gathering, the Windermere Hotel accommodates you with care and charm. The staff, many of whom have worked here for years, know when to appear and when to vanish, ensuring every guest feels uniquely looked after.

The traveller sees what he sees, the tourist sees what he has come to see.
G. K. Chesterton