Tomohon, North Sulawesi

Set high in the cool Minahasa highlands of North Sulawesi, Tomohon is a town framed by volcanoes and known for its fertile soils, fiery cuisine and strong cultural identity. At just under an hour’s drive from Manado, it feels like a world apart - mornings are cool, the air crisp with the scent of clove and pine, and the surrounding hills ripple with vegetable fields and flower farms.

Dominating the horizon are two active volcanoes, Mount Lokon and Mount Mahawu. Both are accessible to hikers, with trails leading to steaming craters and panoramic views over the Minahasa plateau and the distant coastline. The landscapes are dramatic and varied; from neatly terraced fields to dense forest alive with birdsong. For travellers, Tomohon offers both a refreshing change of climate and a chance to experience North Sulawesi away from the sea.

The town itself is a centre of Minahasan culture. Tomohon’s traditional market is one of the most famous and confronting in Indonesia, known for its raw intensity and unusual produce. For some, it is a glimpse into unfiltered local life and for others, while others may find it challenging and prefer to admire from a distance. Either way, it underscores Tomohon’s role as a hub of trade and tradition in the highlands.

More gentle is the town’s connection with flowers. Tomohon hosts an annual flower festival each August, when streets fill with vibrant floats and parades, a reflection of the fertile volcanic soil that supports year-round horticulture. Visiting outside festival season still offers its pleasures with plenty of small nurseries and gardens, lending the town a quietly colourful charm.

Tomohon is also a gateway and from here, travellers can easily reach Lake Tondano, with its stilted houses and lakeside seafood restaurants, or the smaller Lake Linow, famed for its shifting colours caused by volcanic minerals. Together, these highland landscapes provide a tranquil contrast to the tropical coast.

Tomohon may not be polished, but it is a memorable town where volcanic energy, cultural intensity and highland freshness combine. For those exploring North Sulawesi, it is a stop that reveals another facet of the island’s rich and varied character.

When preparing to travel, lay out all your clothes and all your money. Then take half the clothes and twice the money.
Susan Heller