Kakunodate

In the far northeast of Japan’s Honshu island, tucked within the serene landscape of Akita Prefecture, lies a town that feels almost otherworldly, where history remains intact. Kakunodate, often hailed as Little Kyoto, is a place that invites the traveller to slow down, breathe in the crisp air and lose themselves in a time of centuries past.

Kakunodate, once a flourishing samurai town during the Edo period, remains a living museum of wooden buildings and immaculately preserved traditions. It is a town where the quiet rhythm of daily life is punctuated by the whisper of bamboo groves and the murmurs of the Hinokinai River, which meanders through the centre of the picturesque town. The charm of Kakunodate lies in its double character; on one hand, it is rooted in history, with samurai residences and merchant houses that have stood the test of time. On the other, it is a place where nature’s beauty unfolds. The town’s famous cherry blossom trees, perched along the riverbanks, explode into a riot of pink each spring, while in the fall, the golden hues of ginkgo trees add an ethereal glow to the narrow streets.

One of the most enchanting experiences in Kakunodate is wandering the old samurai district, where traditional merchant homes with sliding doors and tatami mats invite visitors to step inside, offering a glimpse into a world that, though ancient, still feels alive. The Akita Museum of Art, another local gem, showcases both contemporary works and pieces inspired by the region’s rich history, adding a modern twist to Kakunodate’s deeply rooted past. Or sample the regional delicacy is Kakunodate’s famous ‘Kiritanpo’, a rice paste wrapped around a skewer and grilled over an open flame, paired with a steaming bowl of rich miso soup.

Kakunodate is a place that will stay firm in your memory long after you leave; the tranquility, the balance of history and nature, the quiet celebration of Japan’s enduring beauty. A town suspended between past and present, it is as though time itself has slowed down to offer its visitors the luxury of simply being.

To my mind, the greatest reward and luxury of travel is to be able to experience everyday things as if for the first time, to be in a position in which almost nothing is so familiar it is taken for granted.
Bill Bryson