Taj Ganges
Varanasi

This centrally located 5-star hotel is widely considered one of the best places to stay in Varanasi. Nestled within 12 acres of lush, landscaped gardens, it offers a serene and leafy oasis from the sensory overload of this ancient and frenetic holy city.

The 130 rooms and suites have recently undergone phased renovations, giving them a fresh, updated feel while retaining the old-world elegance that defines the Taj brand. Expect refurbished interiors, modern bathrooms and tasteful nods to Varanasi’s cultural heritage. Rooms either look out onto tropical gardens or the city skyline, with many offering balconies or generous windows for natural light. Yoga can be arranged upon request, and the outdoor pool is a welcome retreat after a day spent immersing yourself in the heady chaos of the ghats and gallis.

Dining is a real highlight at Taj Ganges. Chowk is a relaxed, multi-cuisine restaurant offering a global menu of Indian, pan-Asian and continental, while Varuna, the hotel’s fine-dining flagship, is renowned for its authentic North Indian cuisine and signature thalis inspired by the hearty food traditions of Uttar Pradesh. Much of the produce is sourced from the hotel’s on-site organic vegetable garden, ensuring each dish bursts with seasonal flavour. And while some hotels near the Ganges abstain from serving alcohol, Taj Ganges offers a full bar, a welcome amenity for many travellers.

The hotel also features a well-equipped gym, bespoke wellness offerings and curated local experiences, including guided heritage walks and riverfront excursions.

Varanasi itself is as intense as it is unforgettable. Often described as India’s spiritual epicentre, the city is a vibrant blend of chaos and charisma. For Hindus, it’s the most sacred of pilgrimage sites, a place where life, death and devotion converge. Witnessing the nightly Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat, a hypnotic spectacle of fire, chanting and ceremony performed at the river’s edge, is a sensory overload in the best possible way.

Yet amid the crowds, cows, sadhus and silk merchants, there are quieter moments to be found. A visit to a weaving house or silk museum offers insight into the artistry behind India’s finest saris, many of which originate here and are still made using methods passed down over a millennium.

Whether you are heading out to lose yourself in the tangled alleyways of the old city or retreating to the comfort of a newly renovated suite, Taj Ganges provides a restorative base, equal parts sanctuary and springboard, for discovering the madness and magic of Varanasi.

To my mind, the greatest reward and luxury of travel is to be able to experience everyday things as if for the first time, to be in a position in which almost nothing is so familiar it is taken for granted.
Bill Bryson