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Pondicherry

Pondicherry, deposited neatly beside the azure waters of the historic Coromandel Coast, is a curious medley of cultures. The French district (where many visitors tend to spend most of their time) and its sprawling bungalows, Franco-Tamil cafes, cobbled streets, is a haven of French style and refinement, separated from boomtown India. Further inland is the Tamil Quarter where a bustling South Indian way of life prevails and the architecture is an amalgamation of the French and Tamil influences. Shopping in Pondi is excellent (taxes are low), with particular specialities being silk weaving, jute craft, handmade paper and doll making. It is ideally located to slot into any Tamil Nadu itinerary, although we would suggest it as a stop off in between the cultural hubs of Tanjore and Mahabalipuram as a perfect relaxing spot.

The town derives its name from “Poduke”, an Indo-Roman trading town that existed here in the 1st century. In more recent history, it was an outpost of the French Empire for almost 300 years, and given the nicknames of "The Indian Côte d'Azur" or "The Riviera of the East". Its French Quarter, looking at the Bay of Bengal, is reminiscent to that of a Provençal village with bright Mediterranean coloured bungalows on large plots of land, lining neat, narrow lanes, flower-laden wrought-iron balconies, blue-enameled street signs, and staying carefully out of the sun, even policemen in red kepis. The old seafront, called Beach Road, makes for a lovely morning stroll, and there is a museum housed in a converted late 18th century villa, several elaborate Catholic churches and 19th century Botanical Gardens planted with around 900 species of plants. 

Away from the ordered geometries of the seafront, deeper towards the heart of town, is the different world of the Tamil Quarter. The exterior of the houses here is colonial in style with arched windows and greek pillars, however the interior is laid out on the traditional building plan with verandahs and wooden posts in the courtyard. The cuisine, just like the city’s architecture, is a delicious fusion of French and Tamil where a croissant for breakfast can be followed by a masala dosa for lunch! 

The spiritual heart of Pondi is the exceedingly rich and internationally famous ashram of Sri Aurobindo, whose distinctive light-gray buildings sprawl throughout the town: schools, libraries, shops and restaurants, and they also make paper and books, often beautifully bound in silk. Just north of town, the ashram’s offshoot Auroville, draws a large number of spiritually minded bohemian-chic visitors.  One can easily visit all key highlights on a day-trip with a private car and driver, however two days will allow one to explore the significant sights, as well as visit the slightly more offbeat places of interest at a leisurely pace. 

>> Read our blog: Ampersand's Insider View of Pondicherry

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Travelling is like flirting with life. It's like saying, 'I would stay and love you, but I have to go; this is my station.
Lisa St. Aubin de Teran

Client Testimonials

Without question, you put together the best trip I have ever taken. We were shown around like visiting dignitaries, the hotels were fantastic and the itinerary was just right. Everybody I know will hear about how amazing Ampersand is!
- Leslie Siben, India
I barely know where to begin... though a sincere 'thank you' would be the best. You have organised this trip perfectly. May was an inspiring and delightful companion in Myanmar – thoroughly professional and friendly at the same time. My accommodation throughout has been superb, especially The Governor's Residence and The Mandarin Oriental. The view from the cottage at Inle Lake was beautiful and I loved every moment of being there. And here I am now on the last leg of this extended holiday at my favourite place. I could stay here for ever, the peace, silence and surroundings all amazing, plus the people and the whole aura of Vana. Thank you for much, and I look forward to speaking to you on my return.
- Ms Margulies, Burma, India & Thailand
We really enjoyed the trip and were happy that we squeezed so much into a few short days. The Burmese people were lovely and the sites were fantastic. We really enjoyed the balloon ride and would highly suggest it to others in the future. The trip went super smoothly and a good time plus learning happened for all. Yangon was nice as the Strand was quite amazing and we of course loved the giant gold temple. Many thanks for all of your help and look forward to future travel with you.
- Wallace Family, Burma
We had a wonderful holiday - everything was perfect. Thank you for helping us to make a thoughtful plan to enjoy and make most out of our trip. The places we visited, the guides, the transportation and driver, the hotels selected... Everything was great!
- Jaime Benitez, South India
Ampersand’s preparation, attention to detail and interaction before and during our trip show exactly why good travel agents have a role in today’s internet booking age. They were a delight to deal with!
- Mr David Wallace, North India
Difficult to articulate just how good the service from you and your team really was. We know you will continue to do well and hope we have the chance to seek your assistance again before long.
- Mr & Mrs Manson, North India
So many highlights to choose from! The hotels were amazing but Maya Villa was a highlight… I loved just hanging out in the hammock reading my book and watching the peacocks chase the cows!
- Krista Weir, Sri Lanka
I thought the Ampersand team was outstanding. We couldn’t have hoped for anything more.
- Mr Geoffrey Johnson, India
Ballyfin was great - we loved it! Best things were the amount of space, it felt like you had the whole place to yourself, the history of the house, and the staff. We'd definitely recommend it. Thanks very much for all the help getting it booked!
- Mr Wyburd, Ireland
We have just returned back from a wonderful trip. Thank you very much for organising everything. The transfer was excellent – for once they had perfect car seats. The villa was lovely, just what we needed and the hotel had helpfully put us as far away as possible from everyone else. The breakfast buffet was the best I have ever seen – and I am slightly obsessive over breakfast!! There was an incredible choice, something for everyone and so beautifully presented. A real highlight of the trip. Thank you again for sorting everything - and at such short notice!
- Redmayne family, Phuket
Difficult to choose the highlight of the trip, can’t choose between… 1) Taj Mahal & Oberoi Amarvilas. 2) Ranthambore. 3) Lake Palace. We have to say a particular thank you for selecting Parmod as our driver. He is a delightful and kind man who took our holiday and our enjoyment as his responsibility. Thank you for putting together such an amazing trip for us. The balance of city and rural destinations was perfect for us and the variety of rooms and hotel types brilliant. Our driver and guides also added so much to the trip with their knowledge of India’s history and culture and their willingness to discuss it both from a professional and personal angle.
- Carruthers family, North India
Ampersand provided a bespoke and flexible holiday, tailored to my every whim. Their highly professional staff had only one goal which was to arrange an exceptional holiday and some unforgettable experiences in India. I have no hesitation in fully recommending them and they will be the first company I approach in the future - 10/10
- Anonymous, India
I would recommend Ampersand without any hesitation!!! The best travel agent that I’ve ever had. Everything – from the individual care and attention in planning the trip, through to the efficiency of the agents on the ground in India – was handled brilliantly. An absolutely first-class service all round!
- Matthew Annable, Rajasthan, India
Everything you did for us whilst we were away was hugely appreciated, and Ampersand has been exemplary in every way. I'll always recommend you!
- Mr Richard Stoughton, Sri Lanka
I had a very lovely time and was looked after splendidly. My first visit to India could not have been better, save for being longer! But I shall return at some point and I shall look to you to make the arrangements.
- Matthew Nicklin, North India
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