Leopard Trails, Wilpattu
Wilpattu National Park

If Yala is the extrovert of Sri Lanka’s safari scene, then Wilpattu National Park is its quieter, more elusive sibling - larger, less crowded and all the more rewarding for those who make the journey. It’s here, on the north-western fringes of the island, that Leopard Trails established its second luxury safari camp, following the acclaim of its original base in Yala. The result is a boutique tented retreat that combines understated style, first-rate guiding and a deep respect for the wilderness.

While the design DNA mirrors Leopard Trails Yala’s camp (khaki canvas, clean monochrome accents and a purposefully restrained elegance) Leopard Trails Wilpattu has a more intimate footprint. The camp comprises three Deluxe Tents, two spacious Suites and two Pool Suites, each offering a different level of comfort and privacy. The Deluxe Tents offer understated safari comfort, with private verandas that open directly onto the jungle and outdoor showers for quiet moments beneath the open sky. The Suites (around 700 sq ft) provide more space, with a separate lounging area, larger bathrooms with indoor showers and enough room to accommodate small families or friends. For those looking to add another layer of indulgence, the Pool Suites include all Suite amenities plus a private plunge pool.

Days here are shaped by the rhythm of safari. Game drives head deep into Wilpattu, the largest national park in Sri Lanka, whose name translates to “land of lakes.” Its mosaics of shimmering villus (natural lakes), weera forests, open glades and waterlogged marshes provide habitats for an astonishing variety of wildlife. Sloth bears loping across sandy tracks, elephants moving silently through the trees, crocodiles sunning themselves on mud banks and flashes of birdlife, from Malabar Pied Hornbills to the tiny Indian Pitta. And yes, leopards - this is one of the best places in Sri Lanka to search for these famously elusive cats, with sightings often thrillingly solitary compared to the busier tracks of Yala.

Back at camp, there’s time to collapse into a chair with a cold gin and tonic before sharing stories around the campfire. Dinner is a convivial affair in the canvas dining pavilion with fragrant curries, fresh sambols and dishes that celebrate Sri Lanka’s culinary heritage. Guests are often joined by the guiding team, whose knowledge and enthusiasm spill over into late-night conversations.

Wilpattu’s magic lies not only in its wildlife but in its pace; with fewer vehicles than in Yala, drives here feel unhurried. It’s this sense of space that makes a stay at Leopard Trails Wilpattu so memorable. The camp sits less than an hour from Anuradhapura, making it an inspired stop between the Cultural Triangle and the island’s western beaches. It’s also within reach of Colombo by road, a scenic half-day journey that sets the stage for immersion in Sri Lanka’s wild north-west.

Leopard Trails has been praised internationally for elevating Sri Lanka’s safari experience. Condé Nast Traveller called it “Sri Lanka’s most stylish safari camp,” while The Telegraph described its guides as “among the best in Asia.” For travellers seeking an authentic yet luxurious way to encounter the island’s wild side, Leopard Trails remains the name to know.

To my mind, the greatest reward and luxury of travel is to be able to experience everyday things as if for the first time, to be in a position in which almost nothing is so familiar it is taken for granted.
Bill Bryson